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Torreys Peak (southwest/west ridge) and Grays Peak (north ridge)
via Peru Creek trailhead (winter closure)
~14 miles
8:14 roundtrip; 4:57 to Torreys summit; 0:38 to Grays from Torreys
Shep and I
I wasn't sure how to entitle this trip report, as my goals evolved as the day unfolded. The initial plan for only Torreys was supplanted by one to climb Torreys, and then depart the Chihuahua Gulch area by going over Grizzly Peak et al. to Loveland Pass. This second plan evaporated when I saw Grizzly's summit area, and became concerned about protecting Shep up there (I didn't have an ice ax for him, and even if I did, there was the issue of his lack of opposable thumbs). So, as a consolation, we added Grays to our outing, and descended its southwest ridge to make a nice loop out of Chihuahua Gulch.
Emily, Scooby, Shep, and I left the Peru Creek trailhead (winter closure at the Montezuma Road) at 8:48 a.m. The 15-degree temperature quickly yielded to the blazing morning sun as we crossed Peru Creek; by the time we reached the turn-off for Morgan Peak, we were baking in minimal layers. Our fears of wallowing in deep virgin snow proved unfounded as we turned onto the Chihuahua Gulch Road, and encountered firm supportive snow. As the road turned west, we continued straight up the gulch...the talus piles and beaver ponds were completely covered in easily traveled snow. Emily and Scooby called it a day near the second creek crossing, while Shep and I continued up the gulch. Shep let out a mournful feral howl as the group split up.
The wonderful weather began to deteriorate as Shep and I continued up Chihuahua Gulch. The coincidence of arriving clouds, increasing wind, and decreasing temperature dramatically changed the meteorological equation in a short period of time, and I had to layer up soon after starting Torreys' southwest ridge (Roach's route 2.14V). The west wind was howling as our route converged with the west ridge...it was a rare instance of mountain-god mercy to have it at our backs. For the last ~200 feet of the ascent, we traversed onto Torreys' southwest slope to avoid the hard snow at and just below the crest of the west ridge. We summitted at 1:45 p.m., 4:47 after leaving the trailhead.
Torreys' summit was completely snowed in, and the Kelso Ridge and the south ridge were heavily corniced. We dug in just below the summit for 10 minutes of semi-windfree bliss, then faced the Venturi effect-driven blast as we approached the Torreys-Grays saddle. The relatively snow-free north ridge of Grays devolved into a thigh-deep wallowfest ~200 feet below the summit. We arrived at the summit 38 minutes after leaving Torreys.
After 12 wind-free minutes on Grays' summit (the snow-filled shelter still works!), we descended the southwest slope to the "Red Saddle." The blowing snow streaming from the southwest ridge deterred us from that otherwise fun route...so we opted to descend the south gully from the saddle into Ruby Gulch. As I stepped into the steep gully, I found myself flying through the air, and briefly thought "avalanche?" Then I hit the slope shoulder-first, and slid a short distance. Not an avalanche...with my dark sunglasses and in the flat light and swirling snow, I had managed to step off a sheer 4-5-foot snowbank at the top of the gully... The remainder of the descent was more controlled in the great snow.
As we approached the collapsed mining shack in Ruby Gulch, I noticed an incongruous brown spot in the white expanse...it was a deer mouse sitting in a small depression in the soft snow.
We arrived back at the trailhead 2:17 after leaving Grays' summit. |
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