| |
Trip Report-5/23/04-S. Maroon Peak via the Bell Cord Couloir
S. Maroon Peak~14'156'
Elevation gain~4'500'
RT mileage~8 miles
This is my first attempt at a TR, so please cut me some slack on any errors.
I’ve been eyeing the Bell Cord for quite some time now, this elegant couloir runs between the North and South Maroon Peak. For those of who have never seen it just take a look at your King Soopers Card…you can’t miss it!!! The excursion began with some excellent news on Friday morning. “Maroon Cr. Rd. will open a week early” I read from the “Trailhead Access”.... sweet!!! No need to lug a 35-pound pack on a road bike ride up the road. So as a warm-up for the climb we decided we would road bike ride Independence pass on Saturday since it was closed to vehicular traffic, then hike to Crater Lake that evening, and climb on Sunday. After completing the ride, and chilling for a while in Aspen we headed for Maroon Lake. Arriving at the overnight parking around 4:30ish we packed the bags, and began the 1.5 mile hump to Crater Lake. As we rounded Maroon Lake you can’t help but gawk at the Bells. While we were gawking we noticed ski tracks coming down the Southeast Couloir. We wondered if somebody had summited today.
The cloud cover at the head of the Maroon Valley was quite ominous, and it was quite windy. We reached Crater Lake in approximately an hour, and proceeded to choose a site, and set-up camp. N. Maroon was towering over us, and S. Maroon was looming in the background. The weather was really starting to get funky, and before we knew it was snowing. Not what I would call inspiring weather. The snow showers continued off and on that evening, and into the night. After establishing camp we preceded to recon the route. We followed the W. Maroon Creek Tr. approximately a half mile to a snowfield where the ski tracks ceased, this is where we would begin early tomorrow a 4’000’ snow climb to the summit of S. Maroon Pk. Being quite tired from the ride up Independence Pass, we decided to call it a night.
We rose around 4:30ish, to a chill in the air, and a dusting of snow on the ground. We hit the trail around 5:15, only to be surprised by the fact that my climbing partners trekking poles grips had been chewed to all hell. He had been porcupined!!! I recall several years ago encountering a porcupine on the W. Maroon Tr., and I was aware of there destructive nature. Don’t leave anything on the ground in this area. I must say I was simply amazed that there was not a trace of the grip anywhere on the ground, how does one digest that material??? After laughing out him for several minutes, we decided to hit the trail. By the way, the porcupine didn’t even touch my poles that were on the ground as well. I’m sure karma will get me for laughing hysterically.
As we proceeded up the trail the cloud cover was beginning to part, but the wind was continuing to swirl about. We reached the snowfield and we began the slog up the snowfield leading to the gullies that would allow access to the upper snowfields, which would eventually place us at the base of the Bell Cord Couloir. I noticed my climbing partner lagging behind early in the climb. After a couple hundred feet more of climbing he decided to call it quits. He wasn’t feeling it and I’m sure the ride the day before got the best of him. At this point in time I noticed several people in the couloir. Still feeling good and comfortable with my ability, I decided to carry on solo.
The Bells were getting their first sunhit, and the upper reaches were quite spectacular. After about an hour and half of climbing, I arrived at the base of the Bell Cord, and decided it was time to put on the crampons. After prepping for the ascent I traversed around a rock outcropping to the base of the couloir, upon rounding this rock outcropping I came across what appeared to be a crevasse developing off the edge of the rock. I peered into it, and decided I’d traverse below it for a few feet and probe for a decent crossing. Fall into this thing and you may wind up in Crater Lake. After a few feet I found a decent area to cross. This thing could open quite significantly in a few weeks. It may be consider a bergschrund as it progresses. It was time to begin the 1’800’ climb to the notch. By this time the sun had reached the bottom of couloir and the snow was softening quickly. It looked as though the previous nights snow showers had deposited about an inch of new snow. Just enough snow had fallen to cause balling on the crampons. A few more pounds on my feet to lug up a 45-degree slope. After having to kick in steps for a while, I came across the climber’s steps that were ahead of me. I decided to jump on their trail, and follow the stepladder to the top. Approximately 200’ or 300’ from the top I noticed several individuals peering down at me. I knew what they were thinking, when is that guy going to get to the top so we can make a ski descent of the Bell Cord?? At which time I decided to get out of the way so they could lay down tracks, they were quite appreciative.
After they were clear, I continued on and finally topped out, and was greeted by another climber. He informed me that another solo climber and his party was ascending S. Maroon as well. Upon peering over to other Northwest side I noticed 3 climbers traversing back, he informed me that that was his party. Of course upon there arrival I asked for some beta from the guys. They informed that they had probably made it a third of the way before turning back because it was getting sketchy. Basically, don’t take a fall cause it’s a long way down!!! Feeling still good and comfortable on the steep snow I decided to give it a whirl. I decided to follow the tracks of the guys that just returned. After doing a descending traverse on a snow slope, I began a ascent of a 50 degree snow slope to class 4 climbing. The snow on the Northwest face was much firmer and perfect for cramponing. Eventually the tracks ended and it was my time to make up it. I decided it would be best to gain the ridge and hopefully that would lead to easier ground. The remaining climb to the summit was a mix bag of steep snow and class 4 rock. Finally the summit!!! Which was a beautiful cornice, I made sure not to get to close to the edge.
After a few minutes I decided it would be wise to get moving because the down climbing was going to require more time. I decided to stick with the ridge for the descent. The descent required several stints facing inward, and a descent of a dihedral. After about an hour I was back at the notch. It was time to descend the Bell Cord. Initially I began with plunge stepping, which was more like plunge holing. Becoming frustrated I noticed glissade tracks down the couloir, hmmm…lets give it a shot. So the descent turned into a very turbulent ride, the mountain had deposited speed bumps all over the place from avalanche run out. It was a great way to drop a lot of elevation. The only problem, I was quite wet after the fun. Not bringing the Gore-tex pants was a bad idea. Finally, I was at the bottom of the snowfield where my climbing partner was chilling. We headed back to camp; where we made a quick fix of everything, and began the journey back to Denver.
This is definitely a classic climb, which provides you with the feel of alpine climbing. I will definitely do this climb again. |
|