Spotlight on Wes Erickson!

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Q: What was your first fourteener, and when did you climb it?
My first Colorado fourteener was Crestone Needle in July 1998.  I had moved to Colorado the summer of 1997 on military assignment.  My brother Kamet, who has always come to wherever I have been stationed to go climbing, called up and asked if I would like to climb the Ellingwood Arete of Crestone Needle, which he touted as one of the fifty best climbs in North America.  As always when he proposes, I said yes.  I had little appreciation of it being a fourteener, nor did he.  We just thought it would be a good 5.7 climb, and it was.  As an aside, the first fourteener I climbed was the Matterhorn in Switzerland.  Kam came to Bamberg, Germany, where I was stationed, in September 1987.  He stayed a month and we climbed in the Dolomites and Chamonix area in addition to the Matterhorn.  As a bonus, Kam got to go rock climbing for a day with Wolfgang Gullich while I was working.  

Q: At what point did you commit to finishing them all?
I did not catch any fourteener fever on the Needle and did not climb another fourteener in 1998.  My second fourteener was Capitol, which I did with Kam in July 1999.  Later that summer, I took my wife and six kids up Quandary Peak.  My youngest, Elysia, was five years old and made it to the top.  I realized my kids kind of liked doing this stuff, so I kept doing it with them, especially my son Eiger.  I never allowed myself to “commit” to doing them for a few years because I thought I would be reassigned and knew it would be logistically difficult to do them all from the far reaches of the country or world.  Somehow I managed to stay put in Colorado until I retired from the military at the end of 2005.  I guess I committed to finishing them all when I was over half way and it seemed I would be staying in Colorado. 

I had good luck climbing fourteeners.  I tried to pick times of good weather and liked to go weekdays if possible to avoid crowds.  I never climbed a peak on Sunday and very few on Saturdays.  Every time I went to climb I was successful in climbing at least one peak.  The only time I felt I didn’t achieve quite what I set out to do was when Kam and I went up Spanish Creek to climb the Prow on Kit Carson.  We hesitated to try the Prow on account of threatening weather, but were able to climb Crestone Peak and made it back to camp just as it started to rain.  We tried to wait for the rain to stop the next day, but spent all day in the tent and eventually gave up when it didn’t seem the weather would turn for the better. 

Q: What is your favorite fourteener route?
After Ellingwood Arete and the knife edge on Capitol as my first two, it was all downhill from there, well just kidding.  Those two are in the top list, but so are the Willow Creek approach and North Ridge of Kit Carson, the southwest ridge of Ellingwood Point, Snowmass from Snowmass Lake, the Snake Couloir on Sneffels, and Mount Elbert from the east.  

Q: What was your most delightful moment on a 14er?
Many stand out.  On top of Quandary with my family was extremely rewarding and satisfying.  Perfect weather on top of Mount Elbert with five kids was quite nice, but they wanted to run to get to a dance, so that became a moment.  Lounging for at least an hour in just a T-shirt on top of Longs Peak while it was over 100 degrees in Denver was nice.  Spending an hour plus on top of Snowmass with no agitation to get going was quite pleasant.  The moment I ascended the summit block on Sunlight was exhilarating. 

My least favorite moment on a peak was on Mount Bross.  First, there were too many people, not surprising I guess since it was Labor Day.  I had just settled into a wind break when what should appear 15 feet in front of me but a couple of 13-15 year olds on ATVs.  Ever since that experience I have spoken of Mount Bross with disdain.
 
Q: What was your most terrifying moment on a 14er?
A few seconds after climbing the summit block on Sunlight, which I thought was easy, I then realized I had to get down, which did not appear easy.  I was by myself as my wife had joined with some others and was climbing Windom.  I just pictured myself being stuck up there as the weather turned sour and I got drenched and became a lightening rod.

Q: Do you have any plans for future mountain lists?
Not really.  The Colorado Fourteener list has a certain appeal that other lists do not have.  I may try to do the western states highpoints over the years, but probably won’t go out of my way too much to do them.  I’m not interested in Colorado county highpoints, but Utah county highpoints are much more interesting.  I have so many competing interests and commitments that I’m more interested in just picking out best climbs whether of a certain height or location.  I will continue to climb fourteeners with my kids; my son Eiger only needs fifteen more to complete the List.

Q: What 14er did you climb last? Did you intentionally save it for last or is it a 14er that previously eluded you?
Pyramid was last, and after waiting eight months my first climb this year.  Last year when we climbed the Maroons, we thought we might also climb Pyramid, but as we descended Maroon’s interminable east slope, we decided we needed a rest day.  So we came to Denver and rested up for a couple of days and climbed Longs Peak.  I had sort of thought I would try to keep Longs for last just to be unusual or in the thought my brother might want to do Kieners.  With just five peaks remaining, I settled in for Pyramid as the last thinking it would be nice to have the view of the Maroons, Snowmass, and Capitol from the top.  It was great to be able to do it with my brother Kam and my son Eiger, who have been my two most frequent climbing companions.  

Q: What is the single most important piece of advice that you would give to someone just starting out?
Be in tip-top shape (not that I am) and start early (which is hard for me).  Starting early gives one the best chance for success on any particular day and being in shape allows one to cover a multitude of mistakes.  I started my son on the easier peaks and he developed nicely to be able to handle things like Little Bear and the Maroon Bells with no problem.  Use your head, get a good guide book, and have fun.  You’ll have more fun if you know what you are doing and don’t get into trouble.