Congratulations
to our latest Grand Slam finisher Todd Holmes! We
had the opportunity of asking Todd a few quick
questions.
Q: What was
your first fourteener, and when did you climb it?
A: My first fourteener was Mt Elbert back
on September 1988.
Q: At what point did you commit to finishing them all?
A:
I decided to do them all after climbing
Sneffels in July of 1989.
Q: What is
your favorite fourteener route?
A:
My favorite route on a fourteeners is
the Snake couloir on Mt Sneffels.
Q: What is
your least favorite route on a 14er?
A:
The worse route on any of the fourteeners
by far is the North face of El Diente. The loose boulders on that route
are just waiting to kill someone.
Q: What was
your most delightful moment on a 14er?
A:
My most delightful moment was on Pyramid I
soloed it one spring with no one else on it the whole day . Had it to
myself It was very uplifting climb.
Q: What was
your most terrifying moment on a 14er?
A:
The scariest moment I have ever had was on
a climb was on the Bell cord couloir. It was June 15th at 7:55 am. We had
just got to the top of the col,and the sun was hot already. Snow just
started falling off of everything. It was time to bail and bail fast . The
quickest way down was down the col so down we went, In less then 10
minutes we were down a thousand feet and counting when I fell into a melt
water hole. The only thing I can compare this thing to is a crevasse.
there was no sign of this thing from the top . I fell through up to my
armpits and one leg was freehanging. I pulled myself out and had a look
inside .It was huge! you could have put two Greyhound busses in this
thing. I looked up to yell at Danny not to Glissade the melt channel when
I saw him running to the side of the col as a huge wet slab was heading
right at me I covered 20yard in what seemed like a second . That wet slab
had turned into slush by the time it hit that hole and filled it in , in a
matter of seconds. Me and Danny were just aw struck that no one had just
died. We had missed being dead by a matter of seconds. The mountain gods
were looking after us that day. We had thought that our timing had been
good, but that time it sure wasn't.
Q: Do you have
any plans for future mountain lists?
A:
I want to climb North Americas 25 Highest points
in the next 10years.
Q: What is the
single most important piece of advice that you would give to someone just
starting out?
A:
Take the things you need plus the things you think you might need .
trust your inner voice It is always right. Go early you can always wait
for sunrise on the summit. Live long. Climb
hard!
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