Congratulations
to our latest Grand Slam finisher Roger Bloomfield! We had the opportunity of
Roger a few quick questions.
Q: What was your first fourteener, and when did you climb it?
I first
climbed Pike’s Peak in about 1984. My son was in boy scouts, and as a
leader, I led several trips up the mountain, with an overnight stay at Barr
Camp. Lots of memories of those trips. . . . Some good!
Actually, it
was a lot of fun teaching young kids the skills necessary to climb and camp
safely. Most of them had endless energy and enthusiasm, and the less
energetic somehow survived.
Q: At what
point did you commit to finishing them all?
When we moved
to Nathrop (near B,V,) I quickly finished the Sawatch Range, and with about
40 completions, it seemed like I was almost done. Little did I know how
difficult it would be to complete the last 19. The logistics of traveling to
remote areas of the state, and often camping really required much more
planning and preparation than the closer peaks.
Q: What is your favorite fourteener route?
This is a
tough one, since I often did the non-standard routes, but I would have to go
with the Little Bear to Blanca traverse. It has it all, with high exposure,
and many technical sections. We did it in one day from the lower basin, and
I definitely would recommend camping at the lakes.
Q: What was your most delightful moment on a 14er?
I did
Wetterhorn in the fall, and with the changing leaves it was just one of
those perfect days to be in the mountains. Or maybe Lindsey in the fall, or
Capitol last week with my oldest son, or how could I forget Sunlight two
weeks ago with my youngest son, or . . . . . .
Q: What was
your most terrifying moment on a 14er?
I don’t
think I had any close calls, but I’d have to go with the descent off
Crestone Needle in 1988. My wife and daughter were with me on their first
14er, and we joined up with my son and nephew, who did the Ellingwood
Ledges. I inadvertently led them all down the South Couloir, and when I
realized my mistake we were to low to climb back to the correct route. I
fully expected to find that we were rim-rocked, and would have to rap off
the south side. Thankfully I found an exit where we could traverse to the
saddle and all ended well. A very long day, with our flashlights dead at
about 9:00 and back at camp at 10:30. Needless to say, my wife was none to
happy with me, and not real anxious to do more 14ers.
Q: Do you have any plans for future mountain lists?
I’ve done
a fair number of the high 13er’s, and I am always amazed at the peace and
solitude. I’ll probably do the ones close by, and if the knees hold out
might make the highest 100.
Q: What 14er did you climb last? Did you intentionally save it for last or
is it a 14er that previously eluded you?
I never
really kept any peak for the last, but it worked out that Capitol was 58 of
59 leaving North Maroon as the final peak. I was not looking forward to N.
Maroon, since I found South Maroon rather unpleasant. Much to my surprise,
North Maroon was one of my best climbs. Solid rock, great lines, and
wonderful views. When I reached the summit, I figured one more traverse was
in order, and ended up going across to South Maroon.
Q: What is
the single most important piece of advice that you would give to someone
just starting out?
I would
echo most of the responders to this question. Climb many of the easier peaks
first and gain essential skills that will serve you well on the harder
peaks. Carry enough emergency gear to weather the worst that mother nature
can throw at you, and on the peaks with potential rock fall, wear a helmet.
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