Spotlight on Jeremy Hakes!

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Q: What was your first fourteener, and when did you climb it?  
I climbed my first two, Grays and Torreys, in August of  '98.  I did it with some friends just as something to do, like "Hey, wanna go climb some mountains?"  I had no real idea of what a "14er" was.  I think I climbed (hiked) in sweatpants, a sweatshirt, and a baseball cap, no water, no food, and with steel toe boots on that ended up bloodying my toes something terrible.  We traversed across the snowfield between the two summits with no ice axes, no poles, and not much idea of what we were doing.  A slip would not have been good, especially on that hard snow. 

Q: At what point did you commit to finishing them all?
I never really thought I would climb them all until I broke 20 or so.  I was just doing the fun routes and fun mountains (class 3-4).  I felt that the total (59) was a little too many.  Now I can't climb enough. 

Q: What is your favorite fourteener route?
Hm...  Just one?  I have some favorites...  West ridge of Quandary, entire East ridge of Capitol, traverse between the Bells, Pyramid, the Wilsons, Eolus group... The San Juans and the Elks are my favorites.  Can that be a route?  All the peaks in those ranges?

Q: What was your most delightful moment on a 14er?
I think finishing was the best.  And I was ecstatic that I didn't finish on Culebra.  Not to dismiss it, but it is not quite the heart-racing finish I would have chosen.  The exposure and dramatic finish of Mt. Wilson was a wonderful, epic way to finish, and emotionally overwhelming for me.  It was powerful to complete a goal I have had for 5 years or so.  Long term goals can be satisfying like that.  Another great one was climbing all night on Blanca during the Perseids on a crystal clear night, watching falling stars and summitting at 3:15a.m.  Amazing.  And watching the sunrise was incredible.  Epic days with big gain, long distance, and difficulty are the most rewarding and satisfying.  I really believe you learn a lot about yourself in difficult situations and doing difficult things.  I think when you strip away all the exterior baggage of the world and you are your basal, carnal, human self, you learn about who you are;  what you can do, how you react to adversity, how you react to success.

Q: What was your most terrifying moment on a 14er?
I didn't really ever have any epics that involved anything really, really bad.  One time during one of my many attempted winter ascents of Evans, my friend got frostnip on his nose, and my other friend started dropping into hypothermia incredibly quickly.  All she wanted to do was take off her coat and lay down in the snow and sleep.  Not good.  She had lost her hat, and had become lethargic and almost oblivious to what was going on around her.  We got her down out of the wind and gave her some hot coffee from my thermos and some sugar, and she came out of it enough to get herself out.  And since there was several feet of unconsolidated snow in the basin, there was no way I could carry her.  That was probably the worst.  Not a lot of fun.

Q: What 14er did you climb last? Did you intentionally save it for last or is it a 14er that previously eluded you?
Mt. Wilson.  I had been in Navajo basin earlier this year, but didn't get it because of time and a little bit of weather the day we were going to do the traverse;  some thunder, snow, and lightning (a little) encouraged us to drop down to the basin.  I didn't save it for last on purpose, but it was a good one to finish them on.

Q: Do you have any plans for future mountain lists?
Yes, I do.  I plan on finishing the centennials, county high points, and probably the IPW, possibly the LCW as well.  Some day I'd like to do the West Elk Wilderness, one of the most neglected and probably overlooked places in the state.  I'd like to get the California 14ers and Rainier.  Maybe Kili?  Pico?  Popo?  Man, when do you stop? :)  Also, my dad's 14er list (he has 15 easy ones left), and my fiancee's list (she has 35 left).

Q: What is the single most important piece of advice that you would give to someone just starting out?
Bring the proper equipment, and know how to use it.  Bring a helmet if you think you might need it.  Bring an ice axe if you think you might need it.  Neither weigh THAT much, and both can save your life.  A proper outer waterproof layer and a hat and sunglasses make things a lot more comfortable.  I think that the personalized 10 essentials are really essential.  Don't plan on bivying, unless you're LOST;  get out if you know the way.