Spotlight on Hakan Bergstrand!

Q: What was your first fourteener, and when did you climb it?
My first US 14er was Mt. Whitney in 1991 on a visit from Sweden.  The first CO 14er was Mt. Elbert on a road trip from Chicago in 1993.

Q: At what point did you commit to finishing them all?
When I moved from NYC to Boulder in 2002, it certainly was on my mind.  At that point I had already done about 10-15 on various trips.  However, the Class 4 peaks seemed intimidating at the time.

Q: What is your favorite fourteener route?
The southwest ridges on Little Bear and Capitol for the adventure (and bushwack).  Keplinger’s couloir on Longs for the solitude.  The southwest ridge on Sneffels and the S-ridge on Snowmass for the good scrambling and views.  Mt Evans on a bike.  Holy Cross and Dead Dog couloirs for the snow.  Wetterhorn for the cool finish.  Kelso ridge on Torreys and Tour D’Abyss for their accessibility. 

Q: What was your most delightful moment on a 14er?
Exploring an unknown route.  Not knowing what challenges were ahead, if it was going to work, overcoming them one at a time, and then topping out.

Q: What was your most terrifying moment on a 14er?
Climbing Blanca in mid-September after the first snow storm of the year without any snow gear.  High up on the Blanca ridge, we had to bypass a hump, but the basin side (right) was one big icy slide, so I opted for a snowy traverse left out over Blanca’s northeast 2,000ft “big wall”.  Regaining the ridge on steep sun-baked snow and crumbly rock had my heart racing.  It took me several days to feel normal.

Q: Do you have any plans for future mountain lists?
Too many!  Wrap-up the highest 100.  A short-list of the most “exciting” CO 13ers.  The Cascade volcanoes.  The most impressive mountains in Glacier National Park.  The WY 13ers.  Among others.

Q: What 14er did you climb last? Did you intentionally save it for last or is it a 14er that previously eluded you?
I was ABSL for almost two years, but finally got around to it in July this year.  No particular reason other than a lack of excitement and its remote location.  Actually, no 14er summit ever eluded me.  I was lucky to do them all on the first try. 

Q: What is the single most important piece of advice that you would give to someone just starting out?
Move fast or start very early to minimize weather impact (since I’m not a morning person I usually have to resort to the former).  Progress gradually to harder peaks -- feel comfortable on Class 3 terrain before you move up.  Always carry enough food, water and clothing to survive a night on the mountain -- not only for your own benefit, but also for someone else’s.