Congratulations
to our latest Grand Slam finisher Dave Hale! We
had the opportunity of asking Dave a few quick
questions:
Q: What was your first
fourteener, and when did you climb it?
I hiked to
the summit of Pikes Peak a couple of times with my Boy Scout troop in the
early 1970s. However, I mark my
fourteener career as beginning with Longs Peak (my first fourteener as an
adult), which I climbed in early August, 1996. In July 1997, Emily and I
did Democrat, Cameron, Lincoln, and Bross as "Part 2" of our
honeymoon...this is when I really got hooked on the Colorado fourteeners.
Q: At
what point did you commit to finishing them all?
Soon after starting my teaching position at the Air
Force Academy, a fellow faculty member invited me to go on the "Annual
Department of Biology Fourteener Climb," which had been a departmental
tradition for several years. We climbed Tabeguache and Shavano on July 18,
1998, and I quickly fell in with a small dedicated group of fourteener
climbers. The infectious enthusiasm of my new climbing colleagues, the
addictive thrill I experienced from these early climbs, and the appealing
challenge of the Colorado Grand Slam got me committed that summer.
Q: What is your favorite fourteener route?
My favorite is the South Couloir Route on the
Crestone Needle, as it offered a bit of everything I enjoy in a climb:
challenging backpack approach (from the west), beautiful secluded campsite
(Cottonwood Lake), steep class-3 climbing, incredible solid rock (with great
hand- and foot-holds!), and serious experienced climbers.
Q: What was your most delightful moment on a 14er?
This is a difficult question, as all of my
fourteener ascents have been very positive experiences. I would have to
rate my June 27, 2002 climb of Mount Lindsey as the best all-around
experience. The day started with a bear encounter in camp, so my excitement
for the peak and my performance on the climb were amplified by a
long-lasting dose of adrenaline. The weather was beautiful, and I was on
the trail with my hyper-energetic climbing buddies Scooby and Shep. I was
amazed by the exquisite mountain scenery of Huerfano Basin and the
exceptional wildflowers blanketing the tundra. Some sections of the route
were challenging for the dogs, so I had to work with them to get us all to
the summit. Everything went so well, we were a great team, and the summit
was especially rewarding. We had the entire mountain to ourselves.
Q: What was your most terrifying moment on a 14er?
I have never experienced sustained "terror"
on a fourteener, as I have always been cautious (i.e., timid...) about the
weather, and I avoided serious exposure in the days when it bothered me.
But, there have been some "moments"... The most terrifying was on Capitol
Peak, my last fourteener. During our
descent, my colleagues and I were ascending slightly different lines on K2.
I was moving in an ascending spiral to the northwest-north side before
pushing straight up to the summit. About 50 feet below K2's summit, in an
exposed position, I tested a large rock before committing my weight...it
seemed to be quite solid. I moved onto it, and grabbed two high hand-holds;
then, as I shifted to move my feet to the next foot-holds, the rock just
peeled out of the face and plunged down the 1800-foot drop towards Capitol
Lake. I was securely attached to those hand-holds, so no harm…but, it was
still my closest call ever on a fourteener.
Q: Do you have any plans for future mountain lists?
Before the end of this summer, I hope to complete
all four of the great fourteener traverses. I have been considering other
mountain lists: doing all of the fourteeners at least twice (and by a
different route than my first ascent), climbing all of the centennial peaks,
climbing all of the "lower-48" fourteeners.
Q: What 14er did you climb last? Did you intentionally save it for last or
is it a 14er that previously eluded you?
Capitol Peak was my last fourteener. This one
previously eluded me...we were thwarted at Capitol Lake by an early-season
snowstorm last Labor Day weekend. My original plan was to do Mount Sneffels
last, as this is a climb some of my less-experienced friends and relatives
could have done with me.
Q: What is the single most important piece of advice that you would give
someone just starting out?
It's difficult to choose a most important single
piece of advice...I agree with all of the previous "Spotlight on..."
responses to this question! So, I will make a very general inclusive
statement: heed the advice of more experienced climbers, and learn from the
mistakes of others. The advice is readily available in Roach's guidebook
and on FourteenerWorld.com, and the mistakes can be found in the
newspaper... |