Congratulations to our latest
Highest Hundred finisher Brian
Schultz! We had the opportunity of asking Brian
a few quick questions.
Q:
At what point did you decide to go for the Highest Hundred?
When I entered the lottery for Culebra/Red Mountain in 2003 and won. I still
wasn't entirely sure it would happen at that point but the idea was planted.
Q:
What are some of your favorite centennial routes?
Hagerman Peak's South Face route- beginning with the North Fork of Crystal
River approach and finishing with the Geneva Lake approach. It's incredibly
scenic. Also, the Southeast Ridge "Classic " route on Vermillion Peak and
the South Ridge "Classic" route on Half Peak are great routes.
Q:
How would you compare the technical difficulty of climbing the 14ers verses
the technical difficulty of climbing the Highest Hundred?
The highest hundred have three class 5 climbs but none of the fourteeners
(by their easiest route) exceeds class 4. For me, the class 5 climbs were
significantly harder. Our experience with technical climbing was limited so
we hired a guide for Dallas Peak. We did tackle Teakettle and Jagged on our
own.
Q:
How would you compare the danger of climbing the 14ers verses the danger of
climbing the Highest Hundred?
Bad weather can make any peak dangerous, fourteener or not. Otherwise,
climbing without protection on any of the class 5 climbs in the highest
hundred is potentially more dangerous than climbing any lesser rated peak.
Q:
In your opinion, what are the most beautiful centennial peaks?
Rio Grande Pyramid is always easy on the eyes, no matter where you view it
from.
Q:
During the time it took you to finish the centennials, did you ever have any
moments of doubt?
Of course. We climbed Thunder Pyramid, Gladstone, Dallas and Teakettle on
four consecutive days and had moments of doubt on all of them but the worst
moments of doubt were on the Jagged climb. In addition to being in such
remote country for three days and trying not to worry about fetching help if
needed, we had to ford three swollen creeks (Sunlight Creek twice), got off
route while crossing more than a half mile of downed trees, then had to
descend 600 feet back to the creek after gaining hard won elevation with 50
lb packs so we could set up camp before dark. It rained nearly the whole
time. We were wet and cold and didn't feel like preparing our packs for the
climb in the morning or making dinner. Thoughts of getting weathered off
Jagged and of complicated routefinding on the peak, as well as the technical
cruxes and exposure didn't make for a good night's sleep. On the climb
itself, especially on the back side of the peak, I wondered if we'd really
make the summit. It's by far the hardest and scariest mountain I've ever
climbed.
Q:
What is the single most important piece of advice that you would give to
someone just finishing the 14ers and thinking about doing the highest 100?
Be prepared to study topo maps because there aren't always nice trails on
the highest 100.
Q:
Which group was more fun to climb, the 14ers or the centennials?
I enjoyed climbing both. It was thrilling to climb peaks like Wetterhorn (my
favorite fourteener) and Mt Wilson and to summit Pyramid, North Maroon,
Capitol, and Little Bear, four peaks that produced many fitful nights of
sleep just thinking about them but also put the biggest smiles on my face
after summiting. On the other hand, routefinding skills were put to the test
on numerous thirteeners and the satisfaction of making those summits was
immeasurable. And the class 5 centennial routes opened up a new realm, which
I found nervewracking and exhilirating at the same time but very rewarding.
Q:
What was your final centennial and why did you save it for last?
Jagged Mountain. Tim Briese and I wanted a memorable climb for the last
highest hundred, on which we'd both be finishing together.
Q:
Do you have any plans for future mountain lists?
I want to say I'm done with lists. It's time for me to climb the long
awaited west ridge of Quandary, check out some peaks in the IPW, and maybe
take another trip to California. But you never know what the future brings
so I won't emphatically say I'm done with lists. |