Spotlight on Bill Wallace!

Congratulations to our latest Grand Slam finisher Bill Wallace! We had the opportunity of asking Bill a few quick questions.

Q: What was your first fourteener, and when did you climb it?
I have always been an avid hiker.  Having retired in 1996 and done many hikes in the Rockies, it seemed like a good time to ty a “fourteener.” Sometime during the summer of 1997 I decided to try Gray’s and Torries (seems like many of us started with these).  While my interest was peaked,  it would be 1999 before I really got going again.

Q: At what point did you commit to finishing them all?
During the summers of  1999 and 2000 I found two excellent partners, Steve and Britt, that accompanied me on many of the  treks through the Collegiates.  With them or solo I probably climbed fifteen or so and somewhere in that two year time frame became committed to climbing them all. Finding climbing partners, that are somewhat driven, in their 60’s, is a challenge.  In time I lost one to biking and the other moved, resulting in a number of solo ascents.

Q: What is your favorite fourteener route?
Without a doubt the Keyhole route up Longs Peak.  I loved it when I first did it in 1999 and after finishing last week it is still my favorite.  It offers a little bit of everything and is an interesting and scenic climb.

Q: What was your most delightful moment on a 14er?
I have enjoyed several special moments. The first was actually Kilimanjairo, in Tanzania which I did in 2000 with my son Bill.  He took pity on me because I could not convince any of my friends to go. It was pretty special to share the summit with him. The second was on Mt. Whitney in California 2003. We did it in one day, 22 miles and almost 7,000 feet of vertical. I was a very proud old man and it was special to barely keep up with a very patient youth.  The third was with the same son, on Capitol, a feared and finally conquered nemesis.  A final very special moment occurred on Castle, described below.

Q: What was your most terrifying moment on a 14er?
Little Bear!  Lack of partners lead me to rationalize I could do this trio solo.  Blanca and Ellingwood met all of my expectations and were no problem.  I left Little Bear till the second day and, despite a fair amont of trepidatioon, had no problems until the return along the final ridge.  Here Imade the very serious mistake of exiting one couloir too soon! Bad mistake! After descending about 200 feet on ball bearings I realized that I was totally cliffed out and obviously in the wrong couloir.  Getting turned around and back out this pile of rubble left me with lasting memories  of  more carefully noting routes.  The father, of a father son team, was killed in this area  the following week.  Another close call was descending Capitol across K-2.  After much rain, the traverses were very unstable. I reached for a Volkswagen size boulder only to have it start moving  down on me. I was able to jump out of the way but the boulder made its way to Capitol lake. Not a moment I am proud of.

Q: Do you have any plans for future mountain lists?
I am involved in a very active hiking group here in Glenwood Springs called ‘The 100 Club.”  You and your signifcant other must total 100 years.  I would challenge any of you to meet a more active or fit bunch of geriatrics. We hike every Monday and every other Wednesday all summer and ski all winter.  Next week I will be leading three long hikes in the Tetons with the group. I might like to try Ranier but am presently burnt out on fourteeners and have no real desire to start the “thirteeners.”

Q: What 14er did you climb last? Did you intentionally save it for last or is it a 14er that previously eluded you?
Until moving to Glenwood Springs from Evergreen I had not tackled any of the Elks.  Finding a wonderful motivated partner Ed in 2005 allowed us to tackle not only the Elks but the San Juans. Last year our list included Culebra, El Diente, Kit Carson, Challenger, Pyramid, N and S Maroon, Capitol and Snowmass.  Not the best to leave till last when you are aging fast.  Unfortunately, I was not able to finish in ’06 because of snow; leaving only Castle and Conundrum.  With only the pair left to finish my son Bill again decided to join me along with his two sons (14 and 12) to make the last lap.  Imagine my surprise when the day before the climb, my other two sons (one lives in Austin the other in Mexico City) and their boys arrived to join us. I had no idea they were coming and on August 18, eight Wallaces (three sons, four grandsons and old man) stood on the summit of Castle Peak ages ranging from 68 to 9.  Two wives stopped at 14,000’ and declared a personal best. This was indeed a special moment, a wonderful way to cap off ten years of persistance.

Q: What is the single most important piece of advice that you would give to someone just starting out?
I tend to believe that people that make it through all 54 (58 ) 1. Find a good, similarly motivated climbing partner.   2. Don’t leave the Elks until the end.  3.  Try and finish before age 65. And 4.  Take a little time to enjoy the moment.