FourteenerWorld Interview with Peter Stabolepszy    Nov 2006

      It was two days before my seventeenth birthday when Peter Stabolepszy asked me a fateful question.  “Do you want to go climb a fourteener?”  I said “sure sounds great” having no idea what to expect. Growing up in Boulder my experience of the mountains at that point consisted of skiing A-basin and hiking the flatirons. Two days later we were standing in the clouds on top of Mt. Elbert watching the valleys below reveal themselves as the sky cleared.  I was so deeply infected with the beauty and Feeling of adventure I was unable to realize at the time that this was a pivotal moment in my life. We learned important lessons on that hike, like if you want to cook food you should bring matches and more importantly, hiking peaks is what summer is all about! 

     By the next summer we had quit our jobs and saved our three hundred dollars and headed out hitch-hiking for three months of peak seeking adventures.  We had named ourselves the Dodsworth School of Mountaineering after our favorite cartoon character whose famous motto was “I don’t mind an honest day’s work, as long as there is someone else around to do it!”  We set our sights on mythical lands such as Uncompahgre and Wemenuche known to us only from books. From Eagles Nest peak to Pigeon peak our journey took us all over the state stopping only for food or to glue our boots back together.   The ensuing months of crazy bushwhacking, mad scrambling, dangerous rock climbing and improve route finding taught us more important lessons.  One was how easily one could die if you lost concentration for a split second, or made one bad decision or if you plain got burned by the weather gods.  The other lesson we learned was that by really getting out there and going for it one could find beauty and adventure that’s beyond imagination.

      Twenty two years later we were out and about as usual, scrambling up the side of an unnamed thirteener improvising a route to the summit armed with some exotic cheese and a seasoned taste for alpine beauty.  This time was bitter sweet however because this was Peters last unclimbed peak over thirteen thousand in the state.  His rare passion and dedication to exploring the high country of Colorado was clearly undiminished as he talked about how he “can’t wait till next summers hiking”.  It’s clear to me that some people are lucky enough to find things early in life that end up bringing them joy and excitement that never ends.

By Ned Shuchter

Durango Co. Oct,16, 06

14erWorld composed the following interview questions for Peter:
 

Q: It seems to a lot of us here at 14erWorld, especially your fellow 13er finishers, that you have come out of nowhere. How can you explain that none of the other 13 finishers know of you, either in person or from peak registers?

           Well actually I just heard about Fourteenerworld this summer from a couple of fellas while hiking up to the First Flatiron in Boulder. They recommended that I should check you guys out and I did and here I am. To my network of friends and family throughout Colorado I have always been here hiking each year with quite a lot of zest, so really it is a matter of networks hooking up. I know there are several other hikers out there that we will be hearing about if they chose to do so, and countless others that prefer to stay under the radar, so choice is part of it as well. I am actually very excited about the enthusiasm and diversity of people and information found in your website. It is people driven with the intent to connect and share information about a very wonderful thing, a very new concept to me, but a validating one. Reading about other peoples experiences and adventures is a blast especially considering it is about mountains all over this grand continent, not driven by elevation but by the need of all of us to explore, pretty cool indeed. I have always known there were dedicated hikers out there, now I have access to their stories and knowledge which is a real gift, I look forward to it.  

           But the biggest reasons are Joa Stabolepszy, Colleen Stabolepszy(wife), Mom, Dad, Ned and David Schuchter, Mike Hansel, Jeff Wardell, Paul Pennington, Kevin White, Aaron Denberg, Brian McDougal, Roaul Rossiter, Derek Ridge, David Ogle,  Brian Carter, Ben Clower, Poncho Slimp, Steve Murray & Oh be (his choice dog), Adam Mulford, Rob Clapp, Ethan Holien ,Terry and Mark Schmalz, Kent Beverly, and Christian Hewitt. These are the amazing people and friends that I have hiked with over the years all of which are close friends and mountain enthusiasts. For the other finishers? Well I was busy hiking with all my best friends and family. I am a social person and through the years I slowly accumulated new friends in which to hike depending on where I lived at the time. I met them in Boulder my home town, Durango, Leadville, and Grand Junction. Another reason is that one of the main reasons I climbed the 13ers was because there was no one there!!! That is the beauty of the Colorado mountains there is so much land to explore and discover such solitude in which to delve into, we are very fortunate to live here. I am so happy for all of these fellow 13’er finishers and have a deep respect for them, we just have not crossed paths, yet!!

          The peak register deal is sketchy at most. In the early years we really paid attention to them because some were so old. On Potosi the register was from June 10^th, 1956! That was amazing, it really did inspire me and motivate me to see more. In the late 80’s and early 90’s we saw Mike Garrets name which was super special and then began to notice Ken and Jeans’ names as well. But as the years accumulated we paid less attention to the registers (a lot of peaks do not have them) and more to the views. Though I do believe they have value I just did not view them as point and means of connecting, out of respect of others privacy. I love the registers on the isolated peaks and in fact in recent years have even added a few, especially on peaks I frequent because I am curious about how often they are climbed. And I suspect that now they know my name they will recognize it scribbled on them thar peaks out there tucked away in those grand peanut butter jars.

Q: When did you climb your first mountain? Which mountain was it? How old were you?

          My first 13’er was Mt. Audubon which I climbed when I was nine years old in 1976. I was with my family which was grand and we had the tastiest cheese, spinach, and tomato sandwiches on top. I remember the Picas which absolutely fascinated my brother and me. I also remember asking about why there were no trees on all the mountains around us.

Q: What was the first technically difficult/dangerous mountain route that you encountered and how did you react?
          Ben Clower, Poncho Slimp (yes it is a real name and person), and myself climbed Jasper Peak in the Indian peaks region when we were 11 years old. My mom dropped us off at the Diamond Lake trailhead. The dangerous part was when we skirted across a snowfield near the summit in tennis shoes, kicking our steps as we went. In retrospect one slip and we would have been toast for the snowfield was at least 1,500 feet of ripe declivity. There was a small lake below in which the snow submersed itself in at its end. I do not remember being particularly scared but I do  remember that first sensation and realization of heights, well beyond an old tree in Chautauqua.

Q: At what point did you commit to finishing all the 13ers, and at what point did you realize or become confident that you were actually going to be able to complete them?
          I was committed when I was 19 years old. I loved hiking so much, along with my group of friends, and we went for it any chance we got which was amazing because none of us had a car, lots of hitchhiking in those youthful days which was a blast and also accounted for a whole range of side bar adventures. We met some strange people on the road, most were generous and supportive. We also found ourselves camping in some strange places as well.
           Last year my friends Aaron Denberg and Christian Hewitt got me up Lizard Head (Aaron) and Peaks 15 and 17 (Christian). At this point I was positive I was on my way. I am a very determined and motivated soul in all my pursuits so I never had any serious doubts; it was always a matter of when.

Q: Which ten 13ers do you think are the most difficult technically?
          Let’s see, some are obvious while others were due to the route we decided to take. But Lizard Head, Dallas, St. Sophia’s Ridge, The Index, Grey Needle, Needle Ridge, Coxcomb, Hessie Horn(due to route), Pilot Knob (route), Jagged Peak, Navajo Peak (route), and Un 13,441( due to route). These are the ones that stick out. Not all require rope, but youth is recommended on some as well as some hair on your chest (which on a few, my hairs lept off due to seeking safer terrain). The decent on Navajo was truly insane and lives in our local lore as an epic day in which we survived the naïveté of youth and the 4 miles of post holing after experiencing acute distress. Ned and Jeff were awesome on this trip and we still talk about it 22 years later! We went down the north face in preparations for our first trip to the mighty San Juan’s! It was by far the sketchiest day that year.

Q: When did you climb Needle Ridge? Please tell us a little about that climb.

          OOO! A good one. I actually did Needle Ridge three summers ago (2004) with my Friend Ned. He did not join me on the peak do to the jagged nature of the peak, but climbed up to Twin Thumbs where I met up with him, he obviously has grown wiser than me. I went to the saddle between Needle Ridge and Sunlight Peak (from Chicago Basin side). I had to descend maybe 150 feet of elevation then began scrambling up the North East side. The climbing was not super difficult but the “air” was distressing at times which I am finding to be less invigorating then in my youth. It is a series of teeth on an exposed ridge of which you have to skirt a few then make for the summit. Lots of great cracks and bomber hand holds did offer comfort in two places in particular. The top is small but offers wonderful view of the “Nuiche”.

Q: Which mountains of the 13ers did you carry/use a rope on?
           We used rope or webbing on Lizard Head, Dallas Peak, The Index, Grey Needle, Peak 15 and 17, St. Sophia’s Ridge, and Tea Kettle (a piece of webbing was left there for our convience).

Q: At what point in your career did you climb Lizard Head? Who did you do it with? Did you lead? What finish did you do?

          I climbed Lizard Head last year ( July 12^th,2005) with Aaron Denberg. He led the climb and was really excited to do so because he knew I was getting close to finishing the 13’ers and this was my major last hurdle. I did not lead it. I was actually on a trip with some other friends and was on my way to watch Don Richmond at the Sand Dunes when he called to offer to lead Lizard Head. Of course I said yes and instantly knew it would be a major challenge do to the fact I had no climbing shoes and had not been on the end of a rope in 12 years! I was anxious to the point that Aaron said, ”On Belay” But once I started climbing I really got into it and was wondering why I had not used rope on some other peaks I had done in recent years like Coxcomb and Needle Ridge, Knuckle head! I guess we went up the standard route for there was webbing and some old bolts on the way. It was Aarons 3^rd time on Lizard Head so I absolutely trusted his abilities, which he has plenty of.

Q: While climbing the fourteeners and thirteeners did you have any moments of doubt?
          All the moments of doubt were in moments of distress due to lightening or sketchy terrain. I was just glad to survive these experiences but in retrospect I am obviously a slow learner when it comes to taking risks. I recently (around 34-35) have discovered mortality which is wonderful but also a “bugger” lodged in my mind, skewing my confidences these days. Those airy days seem to give me more goose bumps than warm recollections. Lightening is absolutely the element of hiking peaks that I find the most dangerous and stressful.(Though I-70 is right up there). So doubt was connected to survival not intent.

Q: How many peaks (including repeats) do you climb in an average year?

          I would say over the years 50 or so with some huge years in there and a few with less.

Q: Do you repeat peaks often?

          There are some peaks in which I have found to be favorites, peaks which I take friends up and just hang out on top because they offer such beauty and amazing views. Precipous Peak, Courthouse, Turner Peak, La Plata Peak, Mt.Elbert (have spent the night on top three times on full moons), Red cliff Peak, Golden Horn, Engineer Peak, Grand Turk, Mt Belleview, Buckskin BM, Un 13,282, and Mt.Owen (Sangres) are a few that I can not resist revisiting. But there are hundreds more I plan on visiting in the coming years!

Q: If Colorado mountain ascents were awarded with merit badges or medals, which 10 would you be proudest to wear?

          I think these peaks would involve the people I climbed them with, the era, and weather in the sense of those perfect days! Not all were the hardest climbs but they were peaks we had looked forward to for so long and ended up being the    “best ” day or most memorable. Lizard Head, Jagged Mountain, Crestone Needle, Coxcomb, Hessie Horn, South River Peak, Pigeon, White BM, Pico Isalato, Mt Herard, Mt Adams, Eagles Nest, and Vestal.  

Q: Is climbing all the 13ers a lonely project? Do you find it difficult to find climbing partners for some of the really unknown and obscure peaks? Do you do a lot of solo climbing?

          I have been fortunate to share this experience with a plethora of amazing friends and family. Many friends I have climbed with were buddies of mine in grade school while others I met during high school and college. It is so important to me to hike with good friends because the dynamics become mutual and the experience takes on a new identity always resulting in some form of harmony. The combination of close company and the mountains is the most precious thing I know when considering experiences relative to other human beings.

          The notion of lonely never really came to mind due to the fact that in the mountains I feel a sense of connection and belonging unlike anyplace else. I have done hundreds of peaks by myself and have found the experience to be very inspiring in the sense of affirming confidences in myself and in the developing and refining of climbing skills. There is something about being on some nasty airy ridge miles from anywhere and having your heart pumpin’ while you glide over the textures of the land to a choice little summit, it is a beautiful experience. I have experienced anxieties at times but really do cherish those times in the woods without company, but definitely not alone. I always seem to find wildlife, waterfalls, hidden lakes, old cabins (some untouched), so it is an adventurous aspect of climbing that motivates me to do more and to me the very idea of adventure precludes notions of lonliness.

Q: Do you have other interests/hobbies as strong as mountaineering? Do you think it’s possible that another interest could replace mountaineering for you?

          Absolutely! I take immense pride in being a balanced individual and happy. Climbing mountains is a passion of mine that is evolving as I grow older. I love it as much now as anytime in my life, except now I find it profoundly precious in ways I did not before. But a big part of these perceptions of mountain climbing are wrapped up in other passions which I get similar feelings of happiness and fulfillment. In the last two years I have taken up guitar which is a blast as well as offering new challenges both mentally and physically. Like climbing I am dedicated to becoming a musician knowing that it will take time and patience as well as risks but definitely not as dangerous. I am an artist as well as a drawer and writer(For fun) both of which have given me wonderful moments of pride and meaning in my life. I crave being on some sort of edge, in a place where I can get out of that comfort zone and express myself, It is that sense of focus and determination to visualize something and bring it alive that keeps me going. Then as a teacher I really want to reach those kids that have such a narrow view of the world (work in a high poverty area). Finding a way to motivate them is as challenging as anything I have ever done, and when you capture ones interest it is very satisfying, I love it.

Q: In the time that you have been hiking/mountaineering/climbing, what piece of equipment or gear has made the most significant improvement in each of the following areas: 1) Safety 2) Comfort 3) Enjoyment.

          1.Safety- I feel that the GpS equipment has made it safer especially for beginner climbers. And expert climbers can also extend their trips in ways that they may have not in the past. I am amazed at the information you can get from these devices. Getting lost can be dangerous to even the most experienced climbers. I actually don’t have or desire a gps, but if I was just starting out I would have one.        2.Comfort- The new light and comfortable jackets are amazing. Being on a peak in absolute comfort is a gift when it is super cold. The new designs offer all a climber could want with few restrictions, warmth, protection from the wind, and versatility. But also those new light hiker shoes offer the same comforts. I feel, outside of the big boots required for ice climbing and crampons, these new hikers will be in more demand for they are so cozy even on more challenging and loose terrain. Tennis shoes with grit, gotta love it.

          3. Enjoyment-Digital cameras have developed to a point where even the most casual hiker and inexperienced photographer can capture amazing moments with very little experience. Being able to shoot 50+ shots gives one the opportunity to take all the risks it takes to be a grand photographer. Plus they are easy to use and being able to go home and enjoy a trips picture without paying the big bucks to a developer is real nice.

Q: As one gets more and more involved in this sport, more peak lists open up that are in the realm of possibility. Some involve world travel, others involve specialized technical skills, others super endurance, etc. What personal characteristics have motivated you to follow the path you have chosen?

          I love to be in good shape so physical activity is a must. I have chosen a more low key approach to the things I love. The 13’ers is really the only definitive goal I have ever had on a big scale. A good 3 mile hike in the desert to some ruins  excites me as much as a 20 miler and a handful of peaks. Snowboarding is very important to me so seeking powder is always high on my list. Recently I have picked up mountain biking which is a grand new challenge. Skateboarding is also a thrill (old school slalom style) because of the balance required to make those smooth turns. There is such a wide view of physicality. Guitar is training my hands to work together in ways I did not think possible, it really is a true sense of accomplishment when you can learn a song that at one time seemed impossible, where as drawing focuses on a refined dexterity which compliment guitar and climbing.

           Being enthusiastic would be the defining characteristic I have chosen in the broad sense, being active, being open to new things, new activities really do seem to keep me motivated and happy.

Q: If you were confined or restricted to only ONE mountain for the rest of your life, which mountain would it be?

          Yipes you are making this hard on me Steve!!! I would have to say Green Mountain in Boulder because it is the mountain that has forged my strength and skills and it never disappoints me. It really is an amazing place offering such challenges in climbing as well as funky routes up some precarious gullies. Besides it is exquisitely beautiful and holds a lot of memories for me, she is “family” to me so I make sure I visit several times a year, roving in her loving arms.

Q: If you were confined or restricted to only ONE Colorado USGS quadrangle for the rest of your life, which one would it be?

          This is the impossible question but I think I can narrow it down to a few. For me it is a combination of grand climbing experiences, the era that I discovered a specific quadrangle, the people I went with, and the need to revisit these areas over and over again.

           The  Wetterhorn quad is amazing to me and has always struck me as a kind of home. The diversity of peaks, the lushness combined with the bizarre features, the broad stretches of tundra, and the forests that always have an intimate feel. Moving to Grand Junction excited me because the Big Blue was right down the road.

          The Gothic Quad is another that really blew me away when I was in my 20’s. Peaks like 13, 550, White BM, and several of the 12’ers there make me so happy. Crested Butte is a great place to visit due to amazing food and coffee so the combination is irresistible.

          Last of all is the Rito Alto Quad. The San Luis valley is crowned with some mighty peaks and that transition from high desert to the lush mountain side is always inviting. We go there often.

Q: At this point in your life do you think that your greatest mountaineering accomplishments are still ahead of you, or are they in the past?

          Without a doubt doing the 13’ers is and will always be my greatest accomplishment, it was a childhood dream in which I followed through on and each day that goes by the reality of achieving this dream really tickles me.  I have caught myself laughing out loud because of it, it is a special feeling. In fact today as I was hiking down the Liberty Cap I felt this overwhelming sense of peace in thinking about all those wonderful years living it up in the mountains.

           But also my excitement for the future is profound and I am looking forward to being in them thar hills, fishing the lakes and stream, snowboarding her magnificent gowns, accenting her lush nipples, and kicking back to a bottle of Haut-Medoc by a campfire with my friends, family, and guitar, and just loving it. Decades of joy straight ahead!!! My future accomplishments will be woven by the freedoms and joy I experience in the mountains with the people I love.

Q: What is your secret to staying physically and mentally fit for a life of continuous peak-bagging?

          Being a happy person in general is by far the most important element in being fit both mentally and physically. The mental part of climbing has changed significantly for me over the past five years as my focus and needs have changed. In my youth 15-33 or so I climbed not only for the peace and beauty but also for that dynamic edge in which I would challenge myself as a climber. I would thrive off those moments of being in the situation where one false step or move and I would in essence kick the bucket ( St.Sophia’s Ridge, The Index, West ridge of El Diente, Navajo, ect…).I loved the freedom of that choice and it invigorated my imagination and passion for life. But as mortality has set in and a great appreciation for each day, each breath, each meal, the mental part of climbing has been distilled into that sense of happiness and discovery. I still put my self out there on that risky edge, on occasion, but now it is a more spontaneous event instead of something I seek out.

           The physical aspect of being fit really is based in dedication. I am in shape 50 weeks of the year (resting a few weeks of the year keep up the spring in my step) and thrive on changing my routine from season to season. The summers involve peaking and long days where the winters are full of shorter but more intensive hikes, bike rides, and boarding with running and sprinting mixed in. I let my body decide what exercise I need more then my mind, I guess I pay attention to the flesh acutely. Hiking has always been my base strength but diversity, ways in which to torture myself, keeps the enthusiasm high and injuries to a minimum. And the glue to all of this mental and physical wellbeing is the impact of stretching. Being loose as well as experiencing that relaxation of a good stretch only accentuates the state of mind I strive to be in which is simply being happy.

Q: If you could spend a day hiking/talking with any mountaineer past or present, who would you choose?

          I would definitely want to hike with my Grandpa in the days when he was a wiley whippersnapper. He worked for the CCC in the late 20’s and early 30’s. He was a mountain enthusiast with a verve that always captured my attention woven in stories that left me on the edge of my seat. He and his buddies got to explore many peaks before it was popular to do so. They always took cast iron pans and enough food and whisky to start a new restaurant! They really lived it up and were super hardy considering they did their hikes after working long and laborious jobs all week long. Though they did many peaks it was the emphasis on being in the mountains, breathing in that clean chilled air, sleeping in the dense forests, fishing the Taylor river, and occasionally hunting marmot which by his accounts made some tough jerky that would set in your gut for a week! They had such shotty equipment and boots that were made for hard labor, never a hint of complaints. Climbing Fitzpatrick or Henry Mountain (He worked in Taylor Park and in the Indian Peaks Wilderness before it was a wilderness) with him and the boys would be a gas, it would be difficult to catch my breath from laughing as we hiked up into the high country because humor was definitely a key to their experience. Without a doubt his love of mountains and his elaborated yarns have inspired me as a mountaineer since I was a little boy old enough to appreciate that old time humor and was beginning to attain a hint of their wisdom spending time up in the high country.

Q: Did you find that climbing the 13ers restricted or expanded your circle of climbing partners?

          Climbing the 13’ers definitely expanded, mainly because my circle of friends thrived off of those out of the way peaks, those peaks that few seemed to have climbed despite their obvious beauty and majestic nature. The classics were and always will be destinations of ours (Jagged, Crestone Needle, Maroon Peak, Tea Kettle, ect…) but it has been those hidden gems like Ute Peak, Pico Isalato, Eagles Nest, Un 13,660, un 13,550, Redcliff, and Precarious Peak for example that blew our socks off. In fact is was this lure of discovering amazing valleys and hidden lakes on the way to the peaks that keeps us as enthusiastic as ever to keep on truckin’. Whether 12, 13, or 14 thousand feet we are interested in the Colorado Rockies because they never disappoint. I am so fortunate to climb with people that truly love the mountains and respect them and revere them for all their many beauties and precious solitudes first. Peaking has in essence become a means to experience these beauties by what we call” the evolution of a day” savoring the morning forest climbs into the alpine glow of the tundra and timberline to the heights in which to see the landscapes around us. Then that welcoming and excitement felt when re-entering the forest anticipating the afternoon naps and the peace that can be found there. So the 13’ers only gave us an excuse to enjoy something we love so much. It seemed certain people gravitated to this need to climb, we hooked up in various ways whether on the trail, in class, or in a coffee shop, many I have met in these spontaneous ways are now close friends.

Q: If you had to start over again with climbing all the 13ers, would your strategy be any different?

          I think the way I did it was perfect. So many times in my youth we left peaks hanging out there by themselves only to come and visit them via new valleys with new routes in mind years later. Revisiting these areas with a more evolved sense of wilderness and appreciation for the mountains made each trip very precious. I viewed this as a lifetime long goal so combing the landscape and seeing as much as possible has always been the inspiration and drive to climbing new peaks. Finishing them at this youthful age actually has surprised me while clearly teaching me that life is a long journey and if focused and passionate you can accomplish things that we dream of as kids. Savoring each peak is such a gift. Now my wife and buddies are really looking forward to the “re-Pete”( That is what they call it) tour until we can’t walk another step.

Q: What was your most delightful moment on a summit?

          Wow this is very difficult, it is the cumulative effect of so many grand times that inspire me to keep on hiking in the first place.

          The time Ned and I climbed Pigeon really did profoundly move my soul. I was hooked from that point on!  We had worked so hard to get there with so little resources and really went for It( We were 19, had to hitch hike down there from Boulder, hiked in from Purgatory ski area, and brought fresh vegetables and tones of meat and cheese, so our packs were loaded!), without a map and all. We just had a general idea of which valley to storm up.I remember grabbing roots on some of the steep parts as my calves were stoked up as if by a flume, burnin’ real bad. Then we crossed the creek right at the head of Ruby Lake, cold water well above the waist line. That evening we were accosted by a rampant porcupine that was chattering it’s teeth as it approached our tent, very determined to swill our salt laden sweat I presume. The climb up the narrow tilted grass ledges, gaining serious altitude very quickly also had a memorable flavor to it. So attaining the summit by our wits and enthusiasm, that determination, dancing on that ridiculous block top overlooking Ruby Basin will always be a moment in which I look back and say, “Boy did we ever live it up!”, that true sense of freedom was achieved, wiley youngsters trying to find meaning in a wide world, and did we ever find it, we still talk about it time to time, yucking it up and aching for more like it.

Q: What was your most terrifying moment on a summit?

          Crestone Peak! We got caught in a lightening storm that came up from the south, it really caught us by surprise because we were in the north couloir and could not see it coming. There were bolts skipping off the rocks all over the place. I remember thinking ”Is this my last thought?” Over and over again. I was very shaken by the experience at the time and have had a very acute sensitivity to lightening since, an authentic bonafied fear.

Q: Have you had any memorable celebrations on mountain summits for your major milestones?

          As a group we take immense pride in our celebrations. The Garlic dance on top of a peak is the best. It usually involves raw garlic, a top of the line cheese (Cambanzola was big this year), an avocado, and Stoned Wheat Thins. Upon eating in hopes that the garlic is of the “spicy” variety we eat and dance around like hyperactive chickens yelling out in celebration!!! Mt. Oso was amazing because the echoes were epic and we celebrated for hours up there until we were stuffed.

          Another important celebration is the lake or river skinny dip which really is quite invigorating. The whooping and hollering is fun and the water actually really helps out the knees and back. And at night being so squeaky clean you sleep like a pup!!

Q: Who were your early mountaineering mentors? Who have been some of your mountaineering mentees?
          Well Mike Garret is the king in my book because he went for it and had done what I only dreamed about at the time I decided to do the 13’ers. I have almost met him several times and will some day I hope, just to chat and maybe share some humorous stories about those grand moments walking in the sky. But also those ridiculous women (Anna Dickenson, Anna and Isabel Pifer, Ermin Sweeney Greenman, Marjorie Perry, and Eleanor Davis Ehrman) of the early days in their skirts, thick blue jeans, and decadent hats, they are amazing and are definite heroes of mine. Not only did they ascend rowdy peaks when it was so difficult to even get to them but they also shattered the “social expectations” in which women were burdened with, they really did live the lives they chose because they believed in themselves and were true to that passion that motivated them, the mountains!!!
Q: What's the hardest UNRANKED 13er?
          St. Sophia’s Ridge…..It is rotten and sketchy!!!!!

Q: Would you rate the summit block of 13,121 Class 4 or Class 5?

          I assume you mean the one in the Gore Range. I would say 4^th class by easiest route but opportunity for some lower 5^th class if you felt up to it. The rock is quite solid in the Gore Range filled with lots of handy fissures and bomber holds. I am not one really to rate the difficulty of a climb, but it can be done comfortably without rope, if you don’t mind heights and have some basic climbing skills. The actual summit block was a fun little maneuver requiring a little gusto but not overtly difficult.

Q: For the record-keeping fanatics out there: Do you have a special system to record your trips, summits, comments, etc.? Is it all from memory, or do you have a mountain log to reference?

          I have a journal in which I log in my peaks and at times throw in some memorable stories or experiences that will help me remember all those choice days in the hills when I am an old geezer. But also as the years stack up I find it nice to look back through them and place the years and peaks together, because there are so many, it kind of has gotten a little jumbled in my memory. I love looking back at lets say 1988 and see how those peaks and experiences really accumulated into a greater understanding of the Colorado Rockies and how precious each of those days were strung together in their unique way, each year stands out if I reflect on it. The Quad list in the High Thirteeners book by Martin and Garret was my “list” that I checked off on as I did them.

Q: What is your favorite piece of mountaineering gear and why?

          I am a shoe guy all the way. If my feet are happy I can get through anything. The new shoes these days really are exceptional and have made those long walks a real pleasure. Climbing peaks involves such a contrast in terrain, tundra to dank slate to boulder fields to bogs, from day to day, these new shoes deliver. I have not broken in a new pair of boots in a decade, and my feet are thrilled about this evolution. Those new wind blocking rain resistant primaloft jackets are pretty choice as well.

Q: What would you say is the predominant characteristic, talent, and/or skill that has helped you achieve your mountaineering goals?

          True love is the motivator of this accomplishment. Everything about mountaineering is dynamic and beautiful including the hardships, pain, challenges, peace, happiness, vigor, and all. Skill wise I was fortunate to be born on the year of the mountain goat, 1967, because my balance and footing are excellent and have led me up every peak with confidence and ease. Mixed with that risk taking mentality and the motivation to follow through with my choices I have been able to be successful as a mountaineer ( a very proficient route finder) with out a single serious injury, that I am proud of (knock knock). 

Q: Carl Blaurock said, "I was born a hundred years too soon. We just had hemp rope, and we didn't even use that right." Do you ever wish your mountaineering career had occurred in a different time period?

          How can anyone question their time in life on this amazing planet?  Sure the old days without so many people and roads may sound appealing (Because it does) but then we would be missing out on a Loback’s Donut, Camp 4 coffee, Cambanzola cheese, French wine at our fingertips,  Fresh fruit and avocados on a peak! Oh yeah, we live in a grand time. I think a certain amount of decadence makes hiking and camping that much more fun.

Q: What are your favorite thirteener routes?

          There are so many! Hm-m-m……….Un 13,550 (Gothic quad) via the Twin Lakes side offered a real fun climb. You could kind of choose how hard you wanted to make it and the rock was fairly solid. We really had a good time on that one one, Ned was psyched on top, felt very invigorated.

          Jagged peak will always be one I remember because I looked forward to it for so long. A great mix of climbing and hiking with a view that seemed to grow with each step. Then crossing over to the Sunlight Basin side for the last climb really sealed it as a classic in our climbing circles.

          Un 13.631 (Maroon Bells quad) from the East Maroon Creek valley also offered so excellent rock scrambling.

          One that caught me by surprise at the steepness and air was South lookout Peak. I was by myself and had just done un 13,156 which was beautiful only to find myself way above Ophir on a narrow set of ledges. I was glad to find some cairns on the way down, it was much easier, but I enjoyed the challenge greatly.

          Though not difficult the climb up Precipice from West Cimarron has become a favorite that I do every few years or so. The forest is lush and the rock formations are wild, almost haunted by the way the wind whistles through them!

          Then there are the mighty Sangres. The ridge up Cottonwood from the San Luis Valley side is long and sweeping but as the valley opened up below I was awestruck, seeing the shadows of the peaks strewn across the sage green floor below. Try this one with an early start!

          Last of all is Un 13,346 (Mt.Jackson quad). The backpack up East Lake Creek is amazing. It was the steep bushwack up to Lake Thomas that really invigorated us, seemed so majestic, and the route up the peak was a fun scramble, really was an exceptional day!!! I highly recommend this climb.

          And just this year me and a friend Mark Schmalz  did the East face of Music Mountain which offered a real solid scramble onto its spiny ridge crest, great holds and lots of air!! Gotta love it because we were not sure we could do it but kept going, we were both thrilled to summit and the view did not disappoint. Route finding at its best with that element of risk as well.

Q: Do you have any plans for future Colorado mountain lists? What list might you currently be working on?

          I can positively say I am done with lists. As I have grown closer to the mountains the notion of peaks being an arbitrary inkling of man has become very evident, which I have been thoroughly a part of promoting, it is the experiences on the way through a forest and to some point of view that interests me most now .I just want to hike where my heart leads me and enjoy each day as it comes. I will always find my way to the tops as long as my body and spirit will allow me, but it is the peace, solitude, beauty, and vigor that will inspire to keep going. And to share that with my friends and family, what else could one ask for?

Q: Within the sport of climbing 14ers there are certain written or unwritten ethical “rules”. For instance, the drop between the saddle, the minimum elevation gain, etc. Do these same ethics or rules apply to the 13ers? Do you have your own set of rules/ethics?

          The reality of climbing the peaks and what distinguishes a peak really is an arbitrary notion. As I have climbed more the absurdity of what distinguishes a peak has become just that absurd. Really it is about enjoying the beauty, the mountains, for all the challenges they can offer and all the inspiration they can muster in ones soul. People can argue all they want, they have a right to, but I do not spend time worrying about it, I climbed what I did because of the ridges and all those choice “points” so high up there in the sky. It has always been about the journey with these points as a guide, a real spectacular guide I must say so myself! To see Colorado via the route of the 13’ers is an epic journey and a worthwhile endeavor. I am not qualified to make these kind of judgments anyway, just out looking for a good time. If they strip down the number of peaks or increase them it will not change how I feel about this accomplishment nor deter me from climbing whatever looks exciting.

Q: How did/do you balance climbing and a career?
           I have never worked an entire summer in my Life, one of my most prolific and amazing accomplishments to date!! I am a school teacher which of course gives me 2 ½ months a year to live it up. In the early years I was a gardener which brought in some good money, for 3-4-5 days of work I could hike for weeks. We would then live off that cash as long as possible. I have been very fortunate to have this much freedom to pursue such a noble passion as mountaineering, and plan on keeping the free summer streak alive till I croak!!!

Q: Who were your favorite climbing partners?
          There are so many but my wife is sweet and enthusiastic a constant force of nature, the Schuchter brothers have been grand in the sense of having such epic hikes combined with humor, decadent meals, and a confidence and comfort level bound by uncompromised trust and having a sveeeeet time, My brother who is a hiking bad ass who always seems to find wildlife, Brian McDougal and Mike Hansel who have a vigor and curiosity that inspires me every time we go, Jeff Wardell for his determination and hunger for that next peak just a mile or two down the ridge, Steve Murray for his laid back approach and gentle spirit, my dad who is a mushroom expert and  one to remind us to slow down look around, Paul Pennington for his unbridled enthusiasm and photographic genius, a real clever and keen eye for beauty, Robb Clapp for his carefree joy of the mountains, and Aaron Denberg for his amazing skills and excellent sense of humor, he is always ready to go on the fly, spontaneous.

Q: Please tell us about your climb of St Sophia Ridge.

          I hitched a ride to Telluride because some friends were going to the Blue Grass Festival (1987). I had enough dough for food but no tickets, I wanted to climb. From town I headed up to Mendota Peak. It was a steep climb with some interesting rock formations and barriers on the way. Seeing Sophia did kind of give me a start for it really looked a lot like Pilot Knob but even skinnier and sketchier, the Knobs little sister. I found a real steep couloir the second one but closer to the summit (if you could call it that) on the side opposite of Telluride. There were some good holds even though half of them kind of peeled off rather easily, unnerving to say the least. In some places it was a chimney climb which I actually prefer, just feel more connected to the rock that way. I figured a few sections were 5.7 ish so the climbing part was challenging. I was motivated though to reach the summit and did. The small ridge section I did was real whispy, climbing over a prominent rock outcropping. I am not sure if there is an easier way. Since I was alone I went back the way I came. The part I remember most though was the sound of bluegrass music drifting up from below carried by the wind. It kind of settled my aroused nerves and made me chuckle on top, sometimes the clarity of the music, the tone and harmonies were spectacular!! On the way down I ran into a large herd of elk, 25-20 or so, they seemed to be particularly curious, a few kind of followed me down a bit. It was another grand day up in them thar hills!!!

Q: Do you do much climbing in winter?
          Actually I find the foothills like Green Mountain, Animas City Mountain, and the Liberty Cap more pleasant in the winter time. The snow really inspires me to snowboard which is a passion as grand and intense as my need to climb peaks. So I seek out powder with a ravenous hunger and live it up every chance I get. Nothing is quiet like fresh powder in an aspen glade in mid morning light under a clear blue sky!!! And to think the season is right around the corner!!! Hiking is still key each and every week but I do scale down the length of my hikes while raising the intensity of the vigor when I go in Winter, sucking wind just feels so good in that cool air. Plus living by the desert has sparked a new love.

Q: Do you suppose that there are some summits not meant to be climbed? In other words, do you think that are there mountains or high points where the danger in reaching the summit out ways (in your opinion) any possible reward?

          If you are motivated and willing to take the risks I think you should go for it   ( this does take into account the ultimate risk, death, as well but doing what you love, what makes you feel most alive is the real gift when climbing those challenging summits). It really is an amazing feeling to climb a peak that looks so foreboding but you gather up the courage and muster up the skills to get up there. If you can convince someone to go, more power to ya’!!! If you do it solo and succeed then you are in for a real treat, something you will remember in those elder days. Plus if you have grand children you could  really weave up a good yarn and leave their mouths open in amazement.

Q: Do you think that you may have sacrificed anything important during the pursuit of your climbing passion?
          I climbed because I absolutely love the mountains and they make me happy and feel grand each time I go. Anything that can inspire that kind of joy while being so healthy is worth every second. No regrets, no sacrifices (I find it challenging to think of something or some way to better spend a summer day), I only hunger to be out there more and live it up.

Q: What is the single most important piece of advice that you would give to someone just starting out wanting to climb all the thirteeners?

          Being happy in the mountains is the best advice I could imagine giving. If you don’t love it to the core what is the point? In that also recognize the dangers involved, know your limits and even more importantly know when to push them!! The peaks will always be there for another day, failing to reach a summit is not a failure but rather a sign of wisdom and presence of mind. Live to climb another day!

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