FourteenerWorld Interview with Jack Eggleston     October 2005

I doubt many people in the Colorado mountaineering world know very much about Jack Eggleston.  I know more than most about him because I am his son and have accompanied him on many of his climbs.  He has always been modest about his climbing accomplishments throughout his 55 years of climbing.  In June of 2002 I had the pleasure to lead him up Lizard head and thus enable him to become the 9th person to climb all the thirteeners.  He had finished the other 658 thirteeners a few years earlier but had decided that the summit of Lizard head was out of his grasp.  I felt very proud of him as we sat together on the summit.

Jack, having climbed all the fourteeners 4 times, was surprised to recently discover that he was the first to climb them all twice (he knew he was the first to climb them 3 times).  He has also climbed the top 100, on public land, twice.  Growing up, I always admired his determination and stamina in the mountains.  He taught me how to set goals and work to attain them.  He has also mentored me in my own climbing endeavors and in recent years we have had many great adventures together as he helped me finish the highest 100 peaks. He has never sought any publicity for himself and has always simply climbed because nothing else has brought him more happiness.  Thanks needs to go to Steve Hoffmeyer for providing this opportunity for others to learn a little about Jack.
- Jay Eggleston 

14erWorld composed the following interview questions for Jack:
1) When did you climb your first mountain? Which mountain was it? How old were you?

I climbed my first 14er, Grays Peak, in 1950 at age ten. 

2) When did you decide to climb all the fourteeners? How long did it take you to finish them?

I decided to climb all the 14ers at age 13.  I first finished them in 1957 at age 17.

3) What was the first technically difficult/dangerous mountain route that you encountered and how did you react?

In 1954 on Crestone Peak Dan Wolfe and I made a mistake on the descent and climbed part way down a technical route between Crestone Peak and Crestone Needle.  We were benighted.  The next day we got hung up so we climbed back up over Crestone Needle.  I was worried but Dan was an excellent snow and rock climber and he got us out OK.

4) What were the last 5 fourteeners that you had left to finish the fourteeners? Why those?

My last 5 14'ers were (El Diente), Mt. Wilson, San Luis, (Stewart), Pyramid, Snowmass, and South Maroon.  These were left purely by chance.

5) When did you start climbing the centennial peaks?

I didn't consciously start out to climb the centennial peaks.  No list existed for centennials or for any 13's for that matter..  After finishing the 14's twice in 1965 and three times in 1969 I started climbing 13's.  I decided 500 vertical feet between peaks was my criteria based on a USGS article that I had read.  I started searching for all 13's on the quad maps.  I climbed all the front range first then gradually worked my way out from Denver.

6) Which centennials do you think are the hardest?

The most difficult centennial peaks are Jagged, Dallas, Teakettle, and Ice Mountain.

7) Which mountains of the highest 100 peaks did you carry/use a rope on?

I used a rope on the four peaks listed in the previous question and the Maroons, Little Bear, and the Crestones.

8) While climbing the fourteeners and highest 100 peaks did you have any moments of doubt?

Some doubt, but I thought I would make it.

9) If Colorado mountain ascents were awarded with merit badges or medals, which 10 would you be proudest to wear?

My ten medals would be: Lizard Head, Peak 15, Jagged, Teakettle, Dallas, the Maroons, the Crestones, Ice Mtn., Arrow, and Unnamed 13,017 by Rio Grande Pyramid.

10) Is climbing all the 13ers a lonely project?

Climbing 13's is a lonely project since it is hard to find climbing partners for distant obscure 13's.  In fact, I have climbed nearly all 14's and 13's solo or with a companion who went only part way.

11) Do you have other interests/hobbies as strong as mountaineering? Do you think it’s possible that another interest could replace mountaineering for you?

I have been an avid downhill skier as long as I have been a mountaineer.  As my strength decreases I will be more into skiing, dancing, and tennis.

12) While you were going for the 13ers, did you feel any competition from any other people who were working on the same list?

I wasn't aware of a competition on 13's.  On 14's there were lists of people who had done them once and I did want to be the first to climb them twice and three times.  (Which I was). 

There were no lists of 13ers.  I was climbing my own list of 13's with 500 vertical feet between peaks until 1989 when I finished it, except for the summit pyramid of Lizard Head which I only climbed in 2002 because of my son, Jay.  After 1989 I started climbing the 300 vertical feet between peaks 13er list since I ran out of peaks on my list.

13) In the time that you have been hiking/mountaineering/climbing, what piece of equipment or gear has made the most significant improvement in each of the following areas: 1) Safety 2) Comfort 3) Enjoyment.

Safety: Rock climbing shoes and camming devices.  Comfort and Enjoyment:  Lightening my backpack to under 10lbs. for everything but food and water.

14) As one gets more and more involved in this sport, more peak lists open up that are in the realm of possibility. Some involve world travel, others involve specialized technical skills, others super endurance, etc. What personal characteristics have motivated you to follow the path you have chosen?

I decided as a little boy that I had the endurance to make any peak.  Even at the point of total exhaustion I am motivated by my goal of reaching the top.  Determination, organization, and extensive planning go into each peak.  Mountaineering is like my religion.  It is a way of thinking and behaving that defines me as a person. 

15) If you were confined or restricted to only ONE mountain for the rest of your life, which mountain would it be?

I agree with Gerry Roach my favorite mountain in all the world is Green Mountain in Boulder.  My son and I have had countless, wonderful  rock climbing and hiking adventures on it.  Of the 14's I would choose Crestone Needle as my one mountain.

16) If you were confined or restricted to only ONE Colorado USGS quadrangle for the rest of your life, which one would it be?

I would choose Boulder quad consistent with my answer on the previous question.  On a high mountain quad it would be Storm King Peak or Crestone Peak.

17) At this point in your life do you think that your greatest mountaineering accomplishments are still ahead of you, or are they in the past?

My greatest mountaineering accomplishments are in the past.  However, I continue to climb my 13's.  Life and climbing are a process not a final goal.  Everytime I summit I am very happy.  I have my (No Red Mtn.) top100 twice.  I am lacking four for my top 200 twice and have 202 of my 13's a second time.

18) Some climbers hardly ever climb the same peak twice, while others like Walter Tishma or Jim Gehres are content to climb the same mountain(s) over and over again. Where do you fit in this behavior?

After finishing the 14's four times in 1991 I had limited desire to do more of them.  On the 13's I'm at 202, but I won't finish twice. 

19) What is your secret to staying physically and mentally fit for a life of continuous peak-bagging?

Mentally I have climbed 55 years in moderation always leaving some peaks (for next year and not getting mentally burned out).  Physically I stay in shape by skiing, dancing, and tennis.  I am a great believer in mega vitamin and mineral supplementation which I have done for 35 years. 

20) If you could spend a day hiking/talking with any mountaineer past or present, who would you choose?

Reinhold Messner

21) Did you find that climbing the 13ers restricted or expanded your circle of climbing partners?

Restricted. 

22) If you had to start over again with climbing all the 13ers, would your strategy be any different?

Having lists as well as route descriptions would have made it so I wouldn't miss peaks or climb routes such as the south face of Arrow thinking it was the easiest route.

23) At what point did you commit to finishing all the 13ers, and at what point did you realize or become confident that you were actually going to be able to complete them?

About 1993 I realized I was able to do it minus the summit spire on Lizard Head. 

24) What was your most delightful moment on a summit?

My most delightful moment on a summit was when my son enabled me to reach the summit of Lizard Head on June 17, 2002.

25) What was your most terrifying moment on a summit?

When three of us were on Navajo and a lightening bolt knocked us back four or five feet.

26) What is the single most important piece of advice that you would give to someone just starting out?

Motivation, motivation, motivation.  You may be exhausted frightened, and or disheartened but you still make the top.

27) Within your elite group of peakbaggers, is there any disagreement as to what the “official” rules or ethics are?

As a very independent person I don't like "official" rules and I have not discussed such with anyone.

28) Have you had any memorable celebrations on mountain summits for your major milestones?

In 1989 my children, Jay and Jane, and my best friend, Ron Greenberg celebrated the 500 vertical feet between 13's list I referred to earlier.  Also, the top of Lizard Head in 2002 was my last 300 vertical foot list summit.

29) Who were your early mountaineering mentors? Who have been some of your mountaineering mentees?

My dad, Bill Eggleston, mentored me not only in mountaineering but in skiing and tennis.  He climbed most of the 14's and had a great love of the mountains.  Even as four year old he had me hiking and climbing.  Some of my mentees were my son, Jay, 5.10 rock climber and super ice climber, my daughter, Jane, and my friends Ron Greenberg, John McInnis, Bob Powers, Larry Burnham, and Dave Smith. 

30) For the record-keeping fanatics out there: Do you have a special system to record your trips, summits, comments, etc.? Is it all from memory, or do you have a mountain log to reference?

I have a system to record my peaks.  After each trip I record the date, drive time and distance, peaks climbed, time and vertical, any route notes and unusual occurences.  Then I label my pictures.  Now I have digitized my pictures and have most in seperate trip files on my computer.

31) What is your favorite piece of mountaineering gear and why?

My two ski poles because they provide four points of balance, take weight off your legs, and help in technical climbing, especially going downhill.

32) What would you say is the predominant characteristic, talent, and/or skill that has helped you achieve your mountaineering goals?

Mental determination and physically strong legs with excellent foot/eye coordination.

33) Carl Blaurock said, "I was born a hundred years too soon. We just had hemp rope, and we didn't even use that right." Do you ever wish your mountaineering career had occurred in a different time period?

No.

34) What are your favorite fourteener routes?

Crestone Needle, Sneffels, Capitol, Handies by the regular route.

35) What are your favorite thirteener routes?

East face of Arrow, Pigeon, Dallas (my own route), Tinity Peak traverse.

36) Do you have any plans for future Colorado mountain lists? What list might you currently be working on?

My list of 14's would include El Diente and North Maroon, add Ellingwood, and delete Challenger.  So I would have 54.  As to 13's I think vertical drop and distance between peaks needs to be considered.  300 vertical feet is an arbitrary number.  One could use 234 and keep El Diente and North Maroon as 14's and get many more 13's.  When I used 500 vertical, distance was taken care of.  If one wishes to use 400, or for that matter 300 vertical, then declare distance between peaks must be at least .5 of a mile.  Many different climbing lists would be possible.  To be more mathmatically precise I multiply vertical drop in feet by distance to the nearest .1 mile and use 150 (300 x .5) as a cut off number.  I plan to finish my top 200 twice.  I may finish the 14's one more time (five times).  Then I will keep climbing peaks I consider 13's (150 test) until I pass away.

37) Within the sport of climbing 14ers there are certain written or unwritten ethical “rules”. For instance, the drop between the saddle, the minimum elevation gain, etc. Do these same ethics or rules apply to the 13ers? Do you have your own set of rules/ethics?

I think more in terms of my answer to the previous question.

38) How did/do you balance climbing and a career?

I taught school during my working life so I had summers to pursue climbing.

39) Do you suppose that there are some summits not meant to be climbed? In other words, do you think that are there mountains or high points where the danger in reaching the summit out ways (in your opinion) any possible reward?

NO.

40) Name the top 10 Colorado mountains that you would NOT want to repeat, along with a few words describing why not for each.

None.

This interview has received page reads.