FourteenerWorld Interview with Dan Bereck         November 2004

For many of us who know Dan Bereck, he presents himself as a fellow climber who has a strong fascination for the Colorado mountains. His passion for the peaks is most represented by his successful efforts to ascend every Colorado Thirteener. Dan's goal was achieved on July 14, 2004 with a wonderful tundra hike up Whale Peak. The tenth individual to claim this victory, Dan is now to be honored by Fourteener World for his perseverance for these special summits. Fellow Thirteener list completers will know the determination and focus it takes to complete this list when working a full time job and juggling family and other projects outside of mountaineering.

In our Fourteener World acquaintances, we tend to know a person in terms of their mountaineering resumes and not about their other life pursuits. Let me tell you a little about our friend Dan Bereck. He is a deeply caring friend and puts his helping hand forward to all who know him in both business and pleasure. Dan has dedicated many hours to the Colorado Mountain Club as a BMS instructor, Council member, trip leader, Chairman, and server of other committees. He currently gives generous amounts of time to the Flatirons Climbing Council. He has time to give to clients in his professional life, often buying climbing guide books for them as gifts. He regularly returns to his Ohio hometown and connects with his family. If he hasn't heard from you in a while, he gets on the horn and seeks out that person. It seems when Dan makes a new friend, he nurtures the relationship with a kind of genuine interest in each individual. No one can deny that Dan is a generous guy. He not only gives from his wallet, but of his own time. We all know with our too busy schedules that the gift of one's own time is the most precious.

Back on August 1, 2004, Dan threw a big party at his home for his Thirteener completion. Food and libations were abundant. His brother, sister, and mother traveled from Ohio to be there. Earlier that day, Dan led a big group up Whale Peak for the second time to show them his final Thirteener. All attending the party received a commemorative T-shirt and baseball cap, complements of the host. As I enjoyed the party, I looked around and then fully realized just how big Dan's friendship circles have extended throughout his life. He wanted  everyone to join in the celebration. It IS a big deal to complete the Thirteener list! I remember when I completed the Top 200 list back in September of 1992. Dan made a special point to climb the last mountain with me, which was Tijeras Peak. Later, he presented me with a poem he had written about me just for this accomplishment. That framed poem still hangs in my house today.

I've climbed many peaks with Dan since our meeting in August of 1991 in the Upper Ruby Creek drainage. The zeal for every mountain climb we've done together makes my memories shine. I relate to this guy. Our friendship bonded because I have always believed that Dan and I approach the mountains with the same kind of "bird dog gusto." The quest for a peak is like a magnet pull. It's irresistible. Everyone who wanders around in the Colorado mountains needs to have a friend whom they can talk into the most wild and crazy climbing schemes. When I get that itch and I want to infect someone with it, I call up my friend Dan.

Dan, I remember the time on North Twin Thumb when you reached down your strong hand and clamped it over my uncertain one as I made an awkward and exposed move. My foot skidded off the rock and, for a brief instant, you fully supported my dangling weight. We've laughed together about that moment many times since. Now I will say "thanks, Dan" for all your devoted friendship. May we keep climbing together stronger and longer in years to come. Now, I say it back to you, "Montani Semper Liberi."

- Jennifer Roach
 

We composed the following interview questions for Dan:

Dan: After summiting Mt. Washington, I went on to climb the 65 highest summits in New England which are known as the 4,000 foot peaks.  During vacations in 1981 and 1982, I traveled to Colorado and other western states where I climbed and hiked but never over 13,000 feet.  In mid 1983, I moved to Colorado but spent a few months hiking and climbing elsewhere in the west.  After climbing Longs Peak in September 1983, my journal reflects, “After this climb, I realize that I will now attempt to climb the 14,000 footers of Colorado.  Only 53 more to go.”  I completed the 14ers on Holy Cross on August 19, 1987 which was exactly four years after climbing my first 14er, Mt. Rainier (I actually did not know the date was the same until I was researching this information for this question).

Dan: In September 1983, I had a bad soloing experience on Mt. Jefferson in Oregon.  After reaching its summit very late and understanding that I would have to bivy, I found myself on a rock face where I could not go back up or precede down easily.  With 40 feet or more to descend, I had to drop my pack to the ground where I observed it roll down a scree field for 200 feet and stop when it hit a large rock at the lip of a 50 foot cliff.  As I began climbing down, one hand and both feet slipped with all of my weight on my left hand which held.  When I finally reached the ground I thanked my Creator for allowing me to climb another day, kissed the ground, and cleaned out my pants (not really).  The night passed fine since I was well prepared and my pack had not gone over the cliff.  I had no idea where I was but I knew the Pacific Crest Trail was in a certain direction so I just followed my compass until I found the trail and walked out.  After that experience, I realized I needed technical rock training so I would not get myself into this situation in the future and I needed to find people who did these “crazy” high peaks.

4) What were the last 5 fourteeners that you had left to finish the fourteeners? Why those?

Dan: Kit Carson, Ellingwood, La Plata, Capitol, and Holy Cross were the final five.  Holy Cross was saved for the end due to my dad passing away in 1987 (the year I finished).  He had strong spiritual beliefs so that seemed like an appropriate peak on which to finish all the Colorado 14ers whose ascents were dedicated to my dad.  The others were just how the peaks were climbed.  Luckily I had summited all the San Juan 14ers in one two week trip in 1986.

5) When did you start climbing the centennial peaks?

Dan: I only climbed two centennial peaks while scaling the 14ers which were Red and Peak 13,980 near Kit Carson.  Both were climbed in 1987.  I really was not planning to climb the centennials after the 14ers but I completed them in 1990 after assisting my friend Don Cook in climbing his remaining 14ers.

6) Which centennials do you think are the hardest?

7) Which mountains of the highest 100 peaks did you use a rope on? How many did you carry a rope on?

Dan: I was still somewhat of a minimalist with the later 14ers and centennials plus 1990 and 1991 were my peak years for technical rock leading.  Back then “light was right” which I have found since to be untrue.  The bi-centennials and Charlie Winger’s style of taking a rope taught me otherwise and I have carried an unused rope on various peaks since my centennial days.  On the 14ers, I used a rope to make 4 rappels on the Crestone Needle to Peak traverse, a rope was used for a short rappel on the Maroon Bells traverse from north to south, a rope was carried on my first climb of Capitol but not used although a 2^nd climb with three friends saw me belay them across the knife edge section, a rope may have been carried on Pyramid but not used, a rope may have been carried on the Wilson to El Diente traverse but not used, and a rope was used for 3 belays on sections of the Little Bear to Blanca Ridge.  On the centennials, I used a rope to rappel off Jagged but not on the climb, a rope was used when I lead up Dallas with the first 10 feet being the crux and for the rappel, a rope was used to rappel off (but not climb) Teakettle, and a rope was used to climb Wham Ridge on Vestal.  All of the peaks mentioned in this paragraph were climbed with partners except Teakettle which I soloed.

8) While climbing the fourteeners and highest 100 peaks did you have any moments of doubt?

Dan: I was pretty strong and motivated back in those days plus my partners were great.  I was concerned about some of the peaks as mentioned earlier but found them to go just fine.  I could psych myself up fairly well plus I was a strong rock climber.  My Mt. Jefferson story indicated earlier was probably my biggest moment of doubt in the mountains.  One 14er story comes to mind as well.  Descending off of Crestone Peak to the Bears’ Playground, the couloir was fairly steep and rocks were shooting down it.  One rock the size of a softball passed within a few feet of my head which was not a pleasant experience.  In addition, the bottom of the couloir was full of snow even though it was mid August and only Don had an ice axe since I left mine at camp.  Luckily we did have a rope so Don went down with the axe first and then I pulled it back up to me so I could descend to him.  After doing that for 2 or 3 pitches, we bailed out onto the rock and descended.   

9) If Colorado mountains ascents were awarded with merit badges or medals, which 10 would be you be proudest to wear?

Dan: Being an Eagle Scout I can relate to this question.  Not in order of priority: Pigeon; Jagged; Rio Grand Pyramid; Peak 15; Peak L, Peak Q; Lizard Head; West Needle; Peak 13,302; and Sleeping Sexton with honorable mention for Capitol; Longs; Pilot Knob; Dallas; Whitehouse; Peak C; Vestal; Milwaukee; Peak 9 (13,402); Engineer (12,968); Treasure; Peak 13,017; Oso; and Peak 11,180 (west).  The unusual ones are probably peaks which have seen few ascents which is why they are included.  The Storm King Quad with 40 peaks over 13,000 feet deserves a special badge as well (that quad is framed and hangs on the wall in my living room).

Dan: Yes and no.  I did climb many, probably well over half, solo which I actually can enjoy.  I also was blessed to find climbing partners who were as “touched” as I was to do many of the peaks.  I am a very safe mountaineer and have not had a major peak mishap occur to me and hopefully I can always say that.  Don Cook, who was 25 years older than me, was my primary climbing partner for the 14ers.  We met in Boulder BMS and had very similar styles.  Debby Reed was my climbing companion for many of the 13ers especially the difficult ones and those which required many days to climb.  Debby and I climbed really well together and we were a natural mountaineering team.  Charlie Winger and I climbed many of the Bi-centennials together and we had a grand time doing them.  Dave Cooper has also been a great partner over the years and especially on the most difficult peaks and climbing routes.  Lizard Head and some of our snow climbs bring back fond memories.  Jennifer Roach and I also did many winter ascents together and some San Juan and Sangres outings.  Gerry Roach, Ken Nolan, and Jean Aschenbrenner, were also climbing cohorts at times.  I also befriended Gary Neptune and Annie Whitehouse years ago with both teaching me much.  There have been many others as well who are not being mentioned due to space.

11) Surely you had other interests before mountaineering that have gone by the wayside. Do you think its possible that another interest could replace mountaineering for you?

12) While you were going for the 13ers, did you feel any competition from any other people who were working on the same list?

Dan: It was never a competition but I did make a goal many years ago of being in the top 10 which I accomplished (#10).  Remember it took me 21 years to climb them all since I did many repeats, climbed lower peaks, and had other interests as well.  Back when I started the 14ers, no one had climbed the 13ers so we did not even know if it could be done.  In 1987, Mike Garratt finished them and Garratt and Bob Martin’s book on the Bicentennials influenced many of us to continue after the 14ers.  There 13er list, which was pioneered by Jim Hoerlein, put ideas in our heads to attempt all of them.  For those interested in my progress over the 13er list, my first peak was climbed in September 1983, the 14ers were finished in August 1987 (I was number 370 on the recorded list back then), the centennials were completed in September 1990 (#38 on that list), bi’s in August 1994 (#25), the tri’s in June 2002 (#14), the top 400 in September 2002 (#11), and the remainder by July 2004.  The 13er finishers are a unique group and five of them are personal friends and I have connections to the other four as well.  I also know five of the next six climbers who should accomplish this achievement.  I think most of us have been very willing to share information and even assist others with achieving this goal.

13) In the time that you have been hiking/mountaineering/climbing, what piece of equipment or gear has made the most significant improvement in each of the following areas: 1) Safety 2) Comfort 3) Enjoyment

Dan: I’ll attempt to list items under each heading indicated but they do overlap:

**Safety: Camming devices for lead climbing on technical routes as well as alpine ascents.  Shorter 9mm ropes and light weight ice axes are also up there.

**Comfort:  High tech fabrics like Gore-Tex and windstopper for protection from the elements whether for clothing, tents, or gloves and hats.  Plastic boots are up there as well for winter mountaineering.  Some people may list the new high tech ice tools but I do not climb ice enough to appreciate them.

**Enjoyment:  Even though I did not purchase one until my final few 13ers, a GPS unit is considered by me to be the biggest mountaineering advancement in the past 50 years.  No more worries about which point is the true summit, no more concerns about where the actual trailhead is, no more distress about finding your way.  GPS has sure made climbing peaks since the 13ers much easier.  Topo software is included with GPS units which is amazing for planning trips and establishing routes and waypoints.  4WD vehicles are also up there with some of the newer peak baggers even embracing campers.  Guidebooks of today are another item with the Roach’s book on the Lost Creek Wilderness inspiring me to climb all the peaks over 11,000’ there over this past year.  Websites like 14erWorld have also played there part in providing information and allowing mountaineers to meet.

14) As one gets more and more involved in this sport, more peak lists open up that are in the realm of possibility. Some involve world travel, others involve specialized technical skills, others super endurance, etc. What personal characteristics have motivated you to follow the path you have chosen?

Dan: I’m a tall, thin, lanky guy who has a long stride and has always enjoyed walking so I am well suited for hiking to the summits of high peaks.  My family is also blessed with fine leg muscles (in high school my sister was 5^th in the State of Ohio in high jumping and my brother was a top pole vaulter) which I cultivated by being a newspaper carrier, mowing neighbors’ lawns, and just walking a lot, when I was a youth.  I can pretty much walk forever even though I cannot run long distances.  My mental skills are pretty good as well which  I developed as a youth and at Annapolis.  I learned at a young age that I could do almost anything I desired if I put my mind to it.   

Dan: Do the Rocky Mountains qualify as one???   The first mountain I thought of is Longs Peak since it has many different routes, was my first peak over 13,000 feet in Colorado, was climbed in September this year, Dougald MacDonald’s excellent book on it was just recently read, and it is an absolutely wonderful mountain.

16) If you were confined or restricted to only ONE Colorado USGS quadrangle for the rest of your life, which one would it be?

Dan: This is an easy question.  The Storm King Quad which is framed and hangs on my living room wall.  It is one of the finest mountaineering areas anywhere with 40 peaks over 13,000 feet.  It is home to the Grenadier Range and the Needle Mountains and has given me weeks of pleasure and enjoyable memories.

17) At this point in your life do you think that your greatest mountaineering accomplishments are still ahead of you, or are they in the past?

Dan: This sounds like you think I am getting old.  You know, you’re right!!!  I still feel pretty young though and I hold my own with younger mountaineers so I hope I have more to look forward to in the future.  I’m not 50 yet so I figure I’m about half way through my mountaineering career.  I am inspired by my 14er partner Don Cook who I summited Denali with when he was age 62.  We climbed the mountain in 13 days total and Don was as fast as anyone on our team.  Charlie Winger is another inspiration since many of his great accomplishments did not happen until he was in his 50’s or 60’s.  Bob Martin is another since most of his peak bagging did not happen for him until later in life.  I hope I have some big mountains left in me when my business allows me to spend the time required. 

18) Some climbers hardly ever climb the same peak twice, while others like Walter Tishma or Jim Gehres are content to climb the same mountain(s) over and over again. Where do you fit in this behavior?

Dan: I like climbing new peaks but I have done many repeats over the years and checking off lists is not my real motivation.  Some people will laugh at that based on what I have done but checking off the peak is secondary to my primary purpose of being in the mountains. Gerry Roach and Ken Nolan talk about a spiritual connection with the mountains and I definitely fall into that category.  I am a quietly spiritual person and the mountains fill a need which I have.  I have some rituals and consider the mountains as friends which I enjoy visiting.

19) What is your secret to staying physically and mentally fit for a life of continuous peak-bagging?

Dan: I think I am younger than I am.  That is very important.  I have always been a very active person and seem to be on the go all the time.  I think my youth played a major role since I was very athletic and my mom always feed us three nutrition meals each day.  My time at Annapolis and in the Navy was more of the same and I think I continued much of it throughout my adult life although I am not as good about it now.  I do have good family genes and I seem to handle stress well although I am much more outspoken than I was when I was younger.  I do walk a lot and use the stairs instead of elevators when I can.  I have never smoked anything in my entire life, I drink alcohol only to be socialable, and I dislike any kind of drugs even aspirin.  Yeah, I’m a pretty dull guy but I climb mountains well which is where most of my weekends are spent??!!

20) If you could spend a day climbing with any mountaineer past or present, who would you choose?

Dan: First, I would like to climb a mountain with my dad who passed away unexpectantly in 1987.  He was a strong influence on me and taught me all about the flora and fauna in the forest when I was in the Scouts as a youth.  He never climbed a mountain in his life (living in Ohio) and I dedicated the 14ers and 13ers to him.  Secondly, George Mallory has been a hero of mine for decades.  He was a mountaineer way ahead of his time and I would have thoroughly enjoyed hiking or climbing with him.  I also feel fortunate to be friends with and have climbed with Annie Whitehouse, Gerry Roach, Gary Neptune, and others, who are local climbers who have accomplished much.

21) How would you compare the New England 4000’ peaks with the 14ers?

22) What route did you try on your trip to Denali in 1988? Were there any lessons learned on that trip that helped you summit in 1993?

Dan: We were on the West Buttress Route both times.  I would recommend that everyone use it on their first attempt.  It is called the walk-up route but you may think differently once you have done it.  In 1988, our team of 6 was well prepared and strong.  We double carried the entire mountain (to 17,000’) which was a huge mistake.  We wasted too much time and good weather carrying loads.  We easily climbed to 17,000’ and then spent seven days there getting our butts kicked by wind and weather.  Three of us made it to 18,500’ where one of our party decided to go on solo in a total whiteout while two of us turned back.  My Navy training allowed me to talk the solo person out of attempting it since the only way he would have returned was in a “body bag”.  One Korean climber did die and four others had to be rescued during that week.  It was a crushing blow when we did not summit.  It took me 5 years to go back and Don and I knew exactly what we needed to do after our ’88 experience.  In 1993, the summit was reached in 10 days with only 13 total days being needed counting 4 rest days.  All four team members, including Mark Nash and Jim Wheeler, reached the summit on a day that saw 11 climbers on top with many more turning back.  We reached the 14,000’ camp in 5 days with only one double carry day which was to that camp.  We started hiking each day at 9:30 and added additional time each day as we ascended.  This helped our acclimation greatly.  Do not go above 14,000’ unless two days of good weather are forecast.  Go directly to the 17 camp if your team is strong enough.  No rest days above 14,000’.  Summit day was not overly great and we were in a whiteout in the football field.  My Colorado peak experience probably earned our team the summit.  I had drawn the compass bearings on my map plus drilled them into my brain so I just told the team to follow me (we were all roped) and I went on compass bearings until it cleared some.  We all reached the summit and returned to camp in a very fast time.  The day after standing on top we descended in another whiteout.  We actually passed four groups who were pretty much lost and they followed us down to the 16,000’ camp.  Again the Colorado peak bagging experience was critical and every one of those groups thanked us for leading them down.

23) Did you find that climbing the 13ers restricted or expanded your circle of climbing partners?

Dan: It probably restricted them. Unfortunately, 14erWorld was not around so finding partners who were up for more than the “weekend trophy peak” was more difficult.  Partners in the mid ‘80’s were found through the CMC or by chance.  Luckily I met Don in BMS in 1985 so we enjoyed many 14er summits together.  Debby, Jennifer, Dave, Charlie, and others, all came later.  I did not mind solo hiking the peaks but the more difficult ones I usually wanted partners even though I usually did most of the rock and snow leading back then.  14erWorld has made it much easier to find partners and I have climbed several peaks with 14erWorld members since I joined a year ago.   

24) If you had to start over again with climbing all the 13ers, would your strategy be any different?

Dan: If my goal was all the 13ers, it would be.  Back in the old days, we climbed the 14ers, then the centennials, then the top 200, and then we became smarter and went for the rest.  Susan Schwartz was probably the only 13er finisher to date who just went for all of them from the start like some of the “new generation” climbers (as I call them) are doing today.  The other factor with the old timers was that we seemed to also repeat peaks and climb unranked and lower peaks more often as well.  Most of us also did not have climbing all the 13ers as our goal when we started on the 14ers.

25) At what point did you commit to finishing all the 13ers, and at what point did you realize or become confident that you were actually going to be able to complete them?

Dan: In the early ‘90’s, I teamed up with Debby Reed, Charlie Winger, Jennifer Roach, Jean Aschenbrenner, and others, who were all looking for competent climbing partners to ascend more interesting 13ers.  Since Mike Garratt (1987) and Bob Martin (1989) had climbed them all, we knew it could be done.  Ken Nolan and Jean were well on their way while Debby, Jennifer, and I were progressing.  In 1994, two years after Charlie, Debby, and Jennifer finished them, the bi-centennials were completed by me.  The 13ers were on my mind but I probably did not get serious about scaling all of them until 1996.  Around that time, I decided that climbing all the 13ers was a realistic goal and I wanted to be in the top 10 mountaineers to do it.  Ken Nolan (1992) and Jean (1993) had recently completed them and Susan Schwartz was a surprise finisher in 1995 which made me take notice that others were also working on this goal besides the climbers I knew.    Starting in 1996, 60 or so peaks each year became the norm for me.  I knew that I was competent enough to ascend all of them with Lizard Head being the only summit above my leading capabilities but I do have strong climbing friends. 

26) What was your most delightful moment on a summit?

Dan: This is not a one peak answer and my response comes totally from memory which indicates how delightful these summits really were for me.  Reaching the summit of Denali on May 24, 1993 was probably my greatest moment on a summit overall.  Thanks Don, Mark, and Jim, for sharing that with me.  The following peaks are also up there:  Mt. Washington on July 4, 1981 which was my first mountain ever climbed; Mt. Moosilauke which completed the 65 highest peaks in New England; Hallet’s Peak on June 21, 1982 which was my highest peak ascended up to that time (it was the first day of summer but snowing on top); Longs Peak in September 1983 which was my first peak over 13,000’ in Colorado; Mt. Antero in June 1987 which is dedicated to my dad who passed away that year; Holy Cross with Don Cook in 1987 on which I finished the 14ers; having been weathered off the year before, the Grand Teton in August 1988 with Don Cook; Pigeon Peak in 1990 where Dave Cooper and I stood on top of my final centennial; Milwaukee with Debby Reed in 2002 to achieve the top 300; Eagles Nest which completed the top 400 in 2002; Lizard Head in 2003 with Randy Murphy and Dave when I knew I could finish all the 13ers; and Whale Peak twice in 2004 when I did and with a group of great friends to celebrate 21 years of Colorado peak bagging

27) What was your most terrifying moment on a summit?

Dan: I have had a few close brushes with lightning over the years on the South Teton, Jones Peak in the Sangres, an unranked 13er on the Taylor Range, and a 13er to the north of Creede.  The incident on the 13er north of Creede actually occurred on the summit ridge as I was approaching the real summit.  I had soloed one 13er earlier that day and had just attained a saddle on the summit ridge to the next peak when “all hell broke loose” as I refer to it.  The clouds opened and the lightning bolts just started shooting out.  Descending quickly off the ridge was not possible and proceeding along the ridge to the summit was very doable.  Instead of going along the top of the ridge toward the summit, I decided to traverse away from the summit on the back side of the ridge (away from the valley which contained most of the storm clouds) to put some distance between me and the saddle and the summit.  As I reached a position where I decided to wait out the storm, a crack of lightning was seen and then heard as it hit the ridge going to the summit where I probably would have been if I had proceeded.  My good judgment to traverse away from the saddle and peak probably saved my life that day.

28) I know that you have been very active with the Boulder CMC over the years. What have you done with the group?

Dan: I am a 22 year member with CMC and I was very involved with the Boulder and State CMC from 1986 until 1999.  Unfortunately I could no longer continue my active participation after that time due to various reasons.  As you may remember Stevo, we first met in CMC when you were just thinking about starting 14erWorld.  I served in a wide variety of volunteer positions over the years and definitely had a positive impact on many CMC members and the Club.  My most enjoyable times were when I was instructing or leading rock climbs or high peak trips.  I was a BMS instructor for 14 years and during the 18 sessions I taught I only had one student who did not complete the course.  Two students went on to become Directors of BMS and two others became Chair of the Boulder CMC Group.  I started the Rock Leading School and directed it for 5 years with Clint Locks taking that program into its 15^th year.  I also started the Advanced Mountaineering School and was its first director which Wes Berg is taking into its 10^th year.  I also assisted Melanie Rees in starting the Cross Country Ski School which is also doing well.  During some past years, I would lead 10 rock and peak climbs annually and my yearly alpine ascent of Mt. Meeker was used to train many future peak leaders.  I was Chair of the Boulder Group in 1993 and the Group Council accomplished  an incredible amount of work that year including increasing membership.  As Chair, I overhauled the Group’s finances and promoted the Brainard Cabin which I hosted for 12 years.  I was very good at identifying and cultivating future leaders for various positions within the Club.  I also served on the BMS Committee and State Board for 10 years each.  As the BMS Treasurer for 9 years, I ensured the finances were handled properly and due to proper planning I only had to recommend one tuition increase during that entire time.  I also served as the State Finance Chair in 1994 and some of the State finance programs which have worked well over the past 10 years were initiated by me.  I always insisted that programs had to pay for themselves and not take members’ dues money which seems to have been forgotten in recent times.  I served as State President in 1995 and I was directly involved with others in the development of the American Mountaineering Center.  I also had the Board pass a membership growth initiative which saw a 6% increase over an 18 month period before new policies replaced it with membership declining.  The initial SCFD grant the CMC obtained was initiated by me and the CMC staff received their first benefits package and extended vacation time when I was President.  I also chaired the Roles Committee which restructured the Club and cut the Board from an unmanageable 40 members to 20.  In addition, I promoted mountaineering in the Mountain Club and did not allow outside influences to take control of CMC activities.  I also worked with the Seattle Mountaineers and the AMC in Boston to promote mountaineering on a national level.  I championed the introduction of the Ellingwood Award for mountaineering excellence and suggested its name.  Since 1998 I have had little to do with State CMC and since 1999 only minor involvement with the Boulder Group.

29) What is the single most important piece of advice that you would give to someone just starting out?

Dan: Always error on the side of caution in the mountains because they can be extremely rewarding but just as unforgiving.  In addition, develop your skills over time by climbing progressively harder peaks; improve your skills through practice, courses, and reading about mountaineering and related areas; find and hike with competent and similar minded partners; learn from others more experienced than yourself; review every adventure for what you have learned and what you can improve; never skimp on equipment to save weight; always be prepared for the worst; when you’re going through your cockiness stage in mountaineering don’t get yourself killed or injured; and don’t exaggerate your stories too much.

30) Within your elite group of Peakbaggers, is there any disagreement as to what the “official” rules or ethics are?

Dan: There will always be disagreements when there are at least two people involved??!!  Gerry Roach and Ken Nolan tend to be the mountaineering experts whose words are law when it comes to Colorado mountains.  If Gerry or Ken say that something is true, it is!!!  Most of those who have finished the 13ers do not get involved with too many details but there are irregularities like some of the following:  the topo map indicates that the east summit of Babcock is the high point while the middle and west summits are actually higher; Moss is considered to be the ranked 13er while Lavender is unranked but Lavender is the higher summit; Martin/Garrett’s book indicates that Bartlett is no longer a 13er due to mining but the summit is still around 13,400’; there are at least three 13ers which have two summits similar in height  with both high points having registers so just climb all of them; Peak 13,285 with a flat summit (2.4 miles from San Luis) has an unmarked higher point around 13,320 to one side; Peak 13,060 in the Elks has three summits with the western summit being the highest although you will have to go through the “Wings of God” to get to it; there are 4 12ers which will probably be promoted to 13ers when the USGS maps are reprinted (Debby and I finished those this summer); and Lizard Head has a walk up route (if you were around millions of years ago).

31) Have you had any memorable celebrations on mountain summits for your major milestones?

Dan: Celebrations on summits are highpoints in mountaineering (no pun intended!!!).   I’ve mentioned several milestones with others already with the top 200 celebration on Peak 13,635 (near Aspen) being a group affair and my sister, brother, and several friends hiked up Whale to celebrate my completion of the 13ers.  I also had a party, which Terri and you as well as several other 14erWorld members attended, to recognize that achievement.  All attendees received hats and tee shirts, which I had made, to show my thanks for their part in my completion of that goal.  The better celebrations were really on summit milestones for friends including: Jennifer Roach; Charlie Winger; Don Cook, Jean Aschenbrenner, Ken Nolan, Melanie Rees’s dog Sadie,  Debby Reed, Gerry Roach, plus others.

32) Who were your early mountaineering mentors? Who have been some of your mountaineering mentees?

Dan: I have been influenced greatly by the accomplishments of some of the better world class mountaineers.  In my early climbing career, I had the pleasure of meeting Jim, Lou, and Peter Whitaker while climbing on Mt. Rainier in 1983.  I also met Scott Fisher back in those days.  Gary Neptune’s Thursday evening shows have given Colorado mountaineers access to many world class climbers as well.  Boulder has been a great place to meet accomplished climbers.  Along the way I befriended and climbed with Gary, Annie Whitehouse, and Gerry Roach, who all lived in Boulder.  I have also talked with Carl Blaurock, Bob Ormes, and Jack Durrance, when they were still with us.  I have always enjoyed passing on knowledge to others.  Over the years I taught many students as an instructor in various CMC schools.  I have introduced many to the mountains and the rock.  Some went on to excel with their abilities surpassing mine. 

33) For the record-keeping fanatics out there: Do you have a special system to record your trips, summits, comments, etc.? Is it all from memory, or do you have a mountain log to reference?

Dan: I have journals on every outdoor activity that I have done since July 4, 1981 when I first climbed a real mountain.  I am an analytical person so I am overly detailed about tracking peaks.  Over the years, I tended to “clean out” areas so at the end my final 13 peaks were bunched together for the most part (7 in the Gores, 3 in the La Platas, 3 in the Front Range).  Over the years, I have had others call me to see if they had climbed various peaks with me.  The only problem I have encountered is Gerry’s “soft ranked” peaks since they did not exist when I climbed their neighbors years ago.  Some I remember doing while others are uncertain.  They are not on the official 13er list so my uncertainty is fine.  Some day I may finish off the “soft ranked” and unranked 13ers which remain if I can get Dave Cooper or John Prater to lead the Index.

34) What is your favorite piece of mountaineering gear and why?

Dan: That depends on the situation, on Lizard Head it was the rope, on some of the snow climbs it was my ice axe or crampons,  in wet weather is was my Gore-tex raingear or waterproof tent, on Denali and winter peaks it was my plastic boots or sleeping bag, topographic maps are also up there for all those 13ers I climbed with no guidebook or 14erWorld information, and the list can go on.

35) What would you say is the predominant characteristic, talent, and/or skill that has helped you achieve your mountaineering goals?

36) Carl Blaurock said, "I was born a hundred years too soon. We just had hemp rope, and we didn't even use that right." Do you ever wish your mountaineering career had occurred in a different time period?

Dan: Today’s Colorado mountaineers owe Carl Blaurock, Albert Ellingwood, Dwight Lavender (who died at age 24), Bob Ormes, the Stettner brothers, William Ervin, Mel Griffiths, and many other early Colorado mountaineers, much thanks for pioneering so many of the routes and peaks we enjoy today.  I would have enjoyed being Albert Ellingwood’s or Carl Blaurock’s climbing partner if they didn’t scare me to death in the process.  I would have also enjoyed being on the Hayden or Wheeler expeditions who first mapped the Colorado mountains and had first ascents on many in the process.  The challenges those early mountaineers faced are much more difficult than what today’s Colorado mountaineers are doing.  The pioneers had limited knowledge of the areas, many times not even a good map, their skills were based on past experience or experimentation, no GPS or 14erWorld to obtain route information or directions, no 4WD vehicles, blankets for sleeping, inadequate raingear, questionable climbing gear, heavy packs, and no hot tubs, massage therapists, or drugs for afterwards.  I am glad that I was able to complete many of the 13ers without relying on GPS and detailed guidebooks even though I think both are very useful tools.  Determining routes from topo maps and exploring them to determine if they would allow me to reach my objective were important to my peak bagging experience.  Others may feel differently.  I am glad for the equipment improvements from the early days which allow peak baggers today to accomplish so much more than our predecessors.  As you have read, I would not change my delightful adventures over the years with Debby, Don, Dave, Charlie, Jennifer, Gerry, Jean, Ken, and the many others.

37) What are some of the rituals you referred to concerning the mountains?

Dan: Since you asked, I’ll answer your question but this may get a little deep so some people may desire to go to the next question.  I asked every 13er (and most peaks attempted) to allow me to climb to their summit on that day and I thank them when I reach their high point.  I do this in my own way.  I also will left hand salute peaks which I have not climbed to acknowledge them and right hand salute those which I have summited.  The saluting comes from my days as a naval officer.  I never refer to “conquering” a mountain since only they allow me to climb them if they desire.  I will also associate or rename peaks for people who have influenced me.  I’ve written many poems while hiking in the mountains and some of those poems relate to the peaks.  Mountains are truly special to me.

38) You seem to sign peak registers with a Latin phrase. Can you explain what it means?

Dan: My climbing motto for many years has been: “Montani Semper Liberi” or “may the mountains always be free”.  My motto applies to peaks having open access and not to the cost of climbing them.  I saw many years ago a future time when Colorado peaks would be restricted which is now happening too much.  No centralized group is standing up for mountaineers’ access rights which I feel is a big mistake.  CMC is a likely choice for such a group but their current politics and direction seem to be elsewhere.  The Colorado Fourteener Initiative is another group but again their  course seems to differ.  The rock climbing community has over 70 access groups (affiliated with the Access Fund) throughout the U.S. which deal with access issues but the mountaineering community has far less (the AAC, the Mountaineers, the Mazamas).  Colorado has some local groups which are formed over specific issues but no centralized Colorado organization with resources and knowledge is available.  It is time for such an organization to be developed and take an active role in preserving the access rights of Colorado mountaineers.  Culebra and now Wilson Peak are currently in question but Little Bear, Lincoln, Democrat, Bross, and Sherman, may not be far behind.  In addition, 13 13ers are now illegal to climb or require a high cost for entry.  Historical access points to peaks in the Sangres, the San Juans, and Gore Range, have also been closed.

39) You mentioned your climbing history in New England and your Colorado adventures are known but where else have you climbed?

Dan: I have hiked and ascended peaks all over the U.S.  I am a firm believer in progressively harder mountains instead of just going for the big names which too many people get away with but others pay a costly price.  My early hiking and camping knowledge took me into the mountains of New England.  In the early years, I had a theme for each summer’s climbing season.  My first year was “day hiking” followed by “backpacking” then “snow climbing”, “bushwhacking”, “rock and alpine climbing”, and so forth.  I began with peaks I knew I could do and progressed to harder peaks as I gained experience.  I also took courses and read a lot of mountaineering books.  I looked for safe and competent partners and learned much from some of the more experienced mountaineers who I met.  The Northwest received much attention in the mid ‘80’s with the higher summits there being achieved as well as other peaks.  I’ve made 8 or 9 trips to the Tetons to climb, backpack, and ski.  I’ve spent five weeks of my life on Denali plus I attempted the East Ridge of Mt. Logan.  Unfortunately my business has not allowed me to take weeks off in a row or I probably would have spent much more time in Alaska and in Nepal.  I don’t really believe in using guides but that is a person decision which may not be appropriate for others. 

40) What is your feeling about giving back to the mountains for the joys that they have given you?

Dan: I am a strong believer in giving back.  I am not a preservationist though since I believe people have a right to use public lands unless objective studies indicate otherwise.  I believe in John Muir’s philosophy of allowing people to use outdoor areas so that they will want to preserve them for themselves and future generations.  Ever since my Boy Scout days, I have participated in various trail restoration projects with most of the major trails in Eldorado State Park and many on Flagstaff Mountain in Boulder Open Space straining my back and arms over the years.  I also organized the Boulder CMC’s Celebrate Eldorado climbing team for 4 years with our team raising the most funds for the Park’s use in each of those years.  When I was involved in the CMC schools, I encouraged Leave No Trace principals and environmentally sound climbing before it became politically correct.  I have been an organizer of three of the annual trail project weekends for the Flatirons Climbing Council. I am a strong financial supporter of the Access Fund and the great work they do on access and conservation issues.  I also support the American Alpine Club’s efforts and applaud the Mountaineers for their hard work.  In my daily life, I recycle both at home and at my business.  As a worker in downtown Boulder, I have taken advantage of my free bus Eco Pass on almost every work day for the past 10 years.  I only drive my vehicle about 6,000 miles each year with the mountains being my primary destination. 

41) What is your favorite fourteener  route?

42) What is your favorite thirteener route?

43) Outside of Colorado, what is your favorite mountain area in the US? in the Americas? in the world?

44) Do you have any plans for future Colorado mountain lists? What list might you currently be working on?

45) Within the sport of climbing 14ers there are certain written or unwritten ethical “rules”. For instance, the 300’ drop between the saddle rule, the 3,000’ minimum elevation gain rule, etc. Do these same ethics or rules apply to the 13ers? Do you have your own set of ethics?

46) How do you balance climbing and a career?

47) Can you contrast peak bagging vs. rock climbing with regard to physical and mental effort required, enjoyment and satisfaction derived, social aspects, etc.?

49) Between the time that you started and finished the thirteeners, can you say that you have learned anything about yourself?

50) Do you suppose that there are some summits not meant to be climbed? In other words, do you think that are there mountains or high points where the danger in reaching the summit out ways (in your opinion) any possible reward?